LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LE2 cam, what lifters, pushrods?

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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 09:40 PM
  #16  
Z95m6's Avatar
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From: newton, kansas, USA
Re: LE2 cam, what lifters, pushrods?

Originally Posted by madwolf
I don't know about those Vortec rockers.... I haven't heard a whole lot on them which is the reason why I'd go with something that's been tested over and over in many different setups...

I have, and would recommend Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 RRs, non self aligning, on a 7/16 stud and GMPP guideplates.

I also have Comp 1 piece chromemoly pushrods and these would work great for your combo.

Also have comp R lifters which again, I'd recommend.

Your stock lifters are hydraulic, but I would get new ones since that cam likes higher RPMs and it's generally a good idea to get new lifters with a cam.
Ditto all that but i don't think you need chromemoly pushrods. That seem like overkill. Hardened will work fine.
Old Oct 21, 2004 | 09:08 AM
  #17  
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From: Red Oak Texas
Re: LE2 cam, what lifters, pushrods?

neither, it will cost the same.

I charge the same price for the LE heds whether I use 987, 977 or bee hive springs on them. They each cost me different prices but I absorb the cost and make sure that teh customer gets the right set up for his lifter type/RPM range, etc.

I basically use the bee hives with stock lifetrs instead of the 987's now to keep the valve trane weight down. Even though the bee hives are about $100 more than the 987's the cost to the customer is the same.

The 977's end up being about the same price as bee hives after you use Ti retainers and locators.

It all depends on what lifter is used as to what spring set up I use.

Lloyd
Old Oct 21, 2004 | 12:22 PM
  #18  
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Re: LE2 cam, what lifters, pushrods?

Originally Posted by Z95m6
Ditto all that but i don't think you need chromemoly pushrods. That seem like overkill. Hardened will work fine.
Overkill on pushrods is 1/2" to 3/8" tapper wall Ti pushrods, really there is no overkill in this area IMHO. I try my butt off to get pushrod lengths shorter in a motor, but if you can't do that you make them stronger and stiffer.

A really good example of this is the new GM Pro Stock Block. The stock BBC has a cam journal center to main journal center length of 5.15", the DRCE PRo Stock block is 5.75" and the new DRCE3 block is over 7.00", moving the cam up higher in the block shortens the pushrods, a shorter pushrod is stiffer and deflects less. Now when you are running 1000lbs springs and big rocker ratios (putting about 2,000lbs on the pushrod) a really short big stiff pushrod is REALLY important.

So how does that apply to the average guy? A 1 piece Chromoly pushrod like a 5/16 Hi Tech is really not even close to overkill since the pushrod still sees around 500-600lbs and our pushrods are longer than Pro Stock motors.

Bret
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