If I'm not wrong, if your running to lean it will knock, which wouldn't be false knock. What could cause this? Fuel pump, injector, etc.

I guess you could get the sucker on a wideband and see if she's leaning out @ wot.

 

What is a wideband?

Sometimes I do get 1-2* of retard at idle and sometimes 3-4* under cruising conditions. But usually, it stays at 0*

 

As someone said before, get some race gas and verify that it is indeed false knock. If it is, then install the resistor and the switch as 1racerdude described and be done with it. I disabled my knock sensor completely, and my car has been perfectly fine for two years like that. IMO, the knock sensor is there to save GM's *** when some moron fills up their F-body with 87 octane fuel. Hell, Ford didn't even use a knock sensor on the Fox-body 5.0's IIRC. It's not a critical function of the ECU. Any decently running/tuned LT1 should not need a knock sensor, and if you get a load of bad gas you'll be hearing the motor ping. I could see it being beneficial on a race/forced induction/nitrous motor that is tuned right to the edge, but for a street/strip car about the only thing you'll have to worry about is bad gas. JMHO

 

Well I only am going to use the switc right before races when im running 93+ octane so It wont be a problem, driving on the street etc.. the km will always be enabled. Thanks Ramz, I saw a blue wire on the top of the ecm and thought that was it. Thanks.

 

Ive got a noisy lifter as well, It can be heard while ideling but as rpms increase its quite, or during driving its quite...or at leaste I think its a lifter, could just be my injectors ticking.

 

Would injector noise give knock retard?

 

Its kinda hard to follow it since it goes throught all that tubing ****. Did you have to remove any of the tubing to cut the wire? If I am correct its the one kinda attached to the top right hand corner of the ecm w/ a connector which has a blue pin you slide out to un-hook the top connector. I should cut the wire on the top connecter and splice it correct? Also where is the knock sensor located on the engine?
EDIT: I am confused here how come this link:
http://shbox.com/1/lt4km.jpg
shows that the 94's are indeed different from the 93's?

Just double checking cuz I dont want to go cutting the wrong wire.

As far as injectors being picked up as knock, no way.

 

Ok, I just took a picture is this the wire I need to cut?
http://company5.go-look.com/images/wire.jpg

 

The 93's have a knock sensor in the passenger side of the block. The 94+ have a knock sensor in the block and also have a knock module in the PCM. The 94+ can replace the knock module with the LT4 knock module and desensitize the circuit.

 

come on, no ones knows if this is the right wire?

 

I'm 99.999% sure that's the right wire. If you wanna make sure, have someone tug on it underneath the car while you watch it up top. Better yet, compare it's place in the ECU connector with a wiring diagram and make sure it goes in pin xxx.

 

So the wires are the same no matter what year? I guess I will cut it and see if it works. Thanks Guys.

 

so do i use a 1K or a 1M resistor from the pic? Why are there two choices?

EDIT: Looked up the part number, its 1M. The color code on the resistor says it 1M. Why would you say 1K or 1M, thats stupid, quite a difference there. How do you figure its 25% reduction also?

 

Would apparently depend on the year of the car.... 93-95 used a 3.9Kohm knock sensor, 96/97 used a 100kohm knock sensor. Whether that corresponds to the resistor selection they show depends on how smart the guy who made the diagram is.

What year is your car? A "signature" with basic info like the year, tranny, and any major mods helps people repsond to your tech questions more accurately. All LT1's are not the same.

 

would 1k be used in 93-95 and 1M used in 96-97?