Are you saying that you have done the knock desentizer and still are getting knock retard? IF so how much?

 

No, I have not done the desensitizer. I was simply asking what to look for if I am getting knock retard, but my knock sensor is fine. My rockers are adjusted correctly. Only other thing could be my exhaust tapping the floorbaord, which it isn't doing. I'm simply saying what if. What would I look for if I was getting retard?

 

If you put some unleaded 100 octane racing gas in and it don't go away it is false knock.

 

What is every possibility of false knock? If I desensitized the knock sensor, would I still be able to get it to detect dotonation?

 

Kurt,
Cut the wire going to the knock sender.Leave a 6" pigtail on the sender.
Get a two position switch and mount it in the console.Get four wires and make them long enough to reach the cut wires at the sender and run to each post on the switch, Connect two of them to the cut wire that goes to the computer. Install the resistor in one of the other wires. Connect those two to the wire going to the knock sender on the engine.
Ya flip the switch one way it is running off of the computer just like factory-- flip it the other way and ya are running off of the resistor ie. no retard.
Run it like factory during the week and flip to the resistor for racing as simple as that.

 

Is that what you are doing?

 

I'll never tell....
No mine is removed,I have a high dollar individual cyl retard that is adjustable to noise that will tune out the engine noise and only see real knock.Solid roller ya know.
I have used this set up on customer's cars and it works-- the one with the switch.

 

How would I know if it wasn't safe to flip the switch?

 

When the night falls if ya are using stock timing with a DCR of 9 or below and the intake air is cool it's safe to run the resistor. Ya got to listen too.T&E and listen ya can hear it rattle if ya got mufflers.
We didn't have all these fancy gadget's back in the '60 and our engines survived.
You may need to have KR if ya are at 9.0DCR and running with the air on and in traffic on pump gas and it's 101* outside some do some don't depends on the car's cooling system.
I have also run a boost timing retard switch and ya can turn the timing down on hot days.If ya got an MSD box.

 

This honestly seems like the best way to go.

 

If you cut it out completely use 3.9K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5 .99 Brand: RadioShack Catalog #: 271-1123 Model: 271-1123
If I knew when I was going to flip the switch I'd be sure to have 93 or more octane gas in it. In the 60s they didn't have fancy computers but the gas was leaded and higher octane than it is now. Just me though.

 

Will this work w/ a 93? Is it possible for you to show a link to a guide or a better explanation? It just kinda hard to understand.

 

Hey, your from formulaSource - Watsup? Have you done this KR switch thing?

 

There is no guide. It was my idea and have used it several times.It will work on a '93
It's pretty well explained in my above post.

 

Yelp it is I. I usually either go by FastLt1 or JeepRamz or just Ramz. I did the knock desentization like in my drawing. I'll email it to you.