with a forged 355, I would go with a dual intercooled procharger running about 12-14 psi, but thats just me, and also would call for a much lower compression ratio, but anyways, the 2400 stall seems like it's plenty for the hotcam?

 

As far as being skeptical on a convertor, I went with a vig 2800. When the car was stock it ran 14.1, after the vig, a 3:73 geatr swap and a cold air kit, i ran 13.2. No problems with drivability, just make sure you buy a trans cooler

You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. Quit giving bad info.
People with a multiplication ratio of over 3x AND an OBD1 car have the trans issues. A 2800 stall does not have an issue

 

I have an OBD1 car and I also program computers and yes OBD1 cars need the computer modified for a high stall. Ask any computer tuner.

 

ok guys, stop fighting. I'm OBD II so I got nothin to worry about.
I guess a 2800 does sound pretty tempting.

 

bye the way, I would be damn proud of the numbers you got. I was running them numbers on a stock 95 T/A with 165000 miles with just computer tuning

 

a 14.1 or 13.2?

 

13.20's It can be done. Car hooks up and good tuning and it will do it all day. Have plenty of time slips and three cars at my house right now that can do it. My best time down the strip with a stock Lt1 with 165,000 miles with 150 NOS and drag radials is 12.10's. I am now in the 10's with new motor in one of my T/A's.

 

cool. do you guys think I can make it into the 12s with the long tubes, CAI/catback, 2800 stall, a good tune and nitto drag radials? or will I definitely need the gears?

 

anyone? what do ya think

 

A 2800 stall does not hurt an obd1 car, i could ask all kinds of people, it's a fact.

My car has 142000 on it. Are you trying to tell me your stock car with " a little tuning" ran a 13.2?

 

If I remember correctly, Ellis was having problems with the 2-3 shift on his 2800 stall.

If you have obd2, DO NOT GO LOWER THAN A 3000 STALL.

 

I switched to a TH400 this year from a T-56 and have tried two different converters to date. Some of my observations may be relevant to this discussion.

The first converter stalled at 5,200 against the transbrake and I was amazed that it was actually fairly street friendly. It would creep up to over 5mph at idle with the brake off. But the stall was too high for the powerband and I had it rebuilt for a 4,200rom stall. I haven't put many miles on it, but it seems to be quite acceptable as a street tranny. Now, the car is not a daily driver. I think a 4,200 stall would be too loose for much stop and go traffic. But for recreational driving, it's quite tolerable.

Because mine's a manually shifted auto, the OBDI high stall compatibility issue is not a problem.

Rich Krause

 

Yeah, I am pretty skeptical of the 13.2 run on just a "little" tuning. I have had 2 LT1 cars, my brother has a 96 Z and a good friend of ours has a 95 TA, and the best stock time on any of these cars was a 13.9. Even my brother's 96 Z only got a 13.6 with K&N FIPK and a cut-out and that was with a 2.0 60 ft on street tires.
Unless the LT1 god blessed you with the "almighty" LT1, then I have to strongly disagree with th e13.2 BONE stock timeslip.

 

why? I thought the problems were with OBD1

 

Why not go lower than a 3000 stall? Because there is no reason to go with a 2800 since the obd2 don't have the 2-3 shift problem. I went with a 3200 and love it, except for the semi non-shifting factor on the 2-3. If I had an obd2 car, I would definetly go with anything above a 3000 stall.