In shoeboxs link they are yellow...

BTW...is this mod 96 compatiable...

 

the link that shoebox has listed should have full color pics, thats how i did mine.

no i havnt taken pics yet because my cam is very cheap and wont take a clean pic of this. im gonna be borrowing a cam. from my friend then i will take some good pics and post them.

 

unless for some reason your car is different then mine there shouldn`t be any compound at all on there unless your looking at the wrong thing.

i spaced the whole coil and i.c.m. assembly away from the head, it`s held on the head by 2 9/16 stud`s

i know that if you buy a new i.c.m. that it comes with that compound on the back of the sensor where it mounts to the heat sink, but there shouldn`t be any on the head itself


check out the pics on shoebox`s site, there pretty detailed and you can see what where all talking about

 

Oh yeah, I forgot the ICM is first attached to a heatsink (a finned aluminum one).

 

yep then instead of attaching the hole assembly to the head, simply space it from the head with washers.

it only gives you like 1/2 inch space but it works!!

let us know if you do this mod and how it turns out.

 

I havent done the ICM mod yet. My car was dropping a couple of cylinders after two or three seconds from a cold start and will slowly get better after the car warmed up. sometimes even after warmed up it will still do it. I was about to replace the ICM till I traced my problem to the driver side bank ... After I scanned it I decided to replace the NGK plugs with new ones and my problem got solved.

The one thing I did notice is the wire contacts held by the ICM Stud. They show sings of corrosion ... or dirt... whatever it was I decided to sand them with a very fine grit sand paper till they were clean and put them back again as they were...

So my point being .... my car ran the same with or without the ICM heated by the head.... but what if the ICM mod is not the answer but the moving around of those Ground wires?? Like the guy who moved the wires and had issues?

Can someone who is having the stumble problem clean those ground wire contacts and test with the ICM making contact to the head to see if this solves the problem? I just have a hunch it may not be the ICM but the ground wires not makin a full contact.


Marvin

 

I am going to do this tomorrow, since I am replacing my coil anyways. I will let you know what I find

 

i did try to clean those ground wires first, i even made 2 of my own grounds and both had no results.

the purpose of doing this mod is to reduce the heat to the icm witch in some cases will help the signal to the opti/coil

sometimes when a computer monitor goes bad it is fine when it`s cool but after it warms up the tiny electronic componets expand and move away from each other causing the monitor to fail when it warms up.

well the icm is the same kinda, as the i.c.m. get`s hotter it seems that it doesn`t send the proper signal the the opti/coil anymore causing a hesitation and surging.

theres tons of post on here about the same problem with the 1994 cars and im not to sure if the 95-97 is affected the same way or not.

on my car after it would run for like 20 mins or reach 200 degrees it would surg horribly and hesitate when trying to accelerate. it almost felt like the power was cut in half.

since doing this mod i drove the car all day at normal operating temp and it was nite and day difference, no surging,no loss of power, and it even seemed to cure a slight backfire problem that i was having on occasion.

it feels like a new car again.

 

I did this last summer when I replaced the ICM but didn't space it. Didn't seem to change a thing. That was then, though. Maybe I'll tear into it again. Of course, now I have that stupid PVC intake in the way...

 

Has anyone thought about adding a 12v cooling fan like one from an old CPU heatsink/cooling fan and hooking it up to the heatsink on the ICM and the ignition on power source? If you wanted to be fancy, you could hook the power to the retained accessory power to let it run for a little while after the ignition is shut off...

 

Just a idea. Wouldn't it be easier to run a small diameter hose from your air dam to cool it? You could setup like a duckbill on the end to cool it. I know if your not rolling it wouldn't do anything but while in transit it would definately cool it down....