Sorry dude, my digi cam is having trouble right now, and I can't get shots of it. I will try to get some later tonight, I am charging the camera now.

I am pretty sure there was only one ruber elbow when I went looking that had a 3" opening, I think it cost ~ $10 that's a hell of a lot cheeper then the 1LE elbow...

 

Hell yea its cheaper. ON ebay the elbow is going for like 75 bucks shipped. Is there any performance gain from the switch? If its like 1HP, then maybe i wont stress the long thingy hanging from my intake.

 

Hey, I got those pics of my cai up for you... I spray painted it metalic blue 4 years ago when I made it, and there is a little wear were it rubs on the hood padding a little. The whole thing didn't cost more then $75 and that includes the $55 for the huge K&N made for some big truck..

 

Where did you get that elbow? Looks kind of like something you could get at a hardware store.

$75 for the whole thing? Sounds like my deal on my SLP cold air thingy. Saw it laying in the back seat of a 95 at a junkyard and asked them how much they wanted. He said $5 bucks, and $60 later for the filters and bam, $65 CAI.

But dubbsix, if you want 330 rwhp, a mild cam, valvetrain upgrades and a tune would most likely get you pretty close.

 

If do a mild cam, should i also do a bowl clean up on the heads?

 

Shibb... thanks man. I will probably just leave the stock elbow on there for now.

 

What are you talkin' about. I used to be at 296 rwhp through the stock exhaust manifolds. I'm sure ANY set of headers would have put me over the top.

 

wow 290 through the stock manifolds huh? thats pretty good. All this talk about rear wheel horsepower.. has left me wondering what a bone stock M6 puts down to the rear wheels. In other words.. what is the driveline loss ?

 

It's not the driveline pursay, but the transmission. The transmission is what makes a difference in power. Since autos are hydraulic they lose power through the fluids, manuals are more mechanical,so power still remains there somewhat.

As for the axle and rear end ratios, those helps some, but they are more for speed. 2.73 to 3.73 will help, but it will kill the top end speed, but will increase acceleration down low.

 

Well the concept of this car is for a street / strip car.. I would definitely sacrifice some top end for brutal torque and acceleration.

 

I have had Hooker LT's and BBK mids and I would take the BBK's in a heartbeat.


#1 Hookers coating quality sucks, they were pealed and rusted within 10 months

*BBK's over a year old no a single spot.

#2 very very small Hp change, actually lost torque with LT's

* I have the dyno sheet *

I would take my emission legal BBK over any LT on the market. Quality plus performance BBK worked for me, I have bought both and thats my choice.

 

Is that thing sealed around your TB? It appears to be smashed on there.


Its ugly. Sorry