The typical roller rocker upgrade that we're talking about consists of going from a 1.5 ratio to a 1.6 ratio rocker. Higher ratio rockers=higher valve lift, which=higher airflow into the cylinders, which is where the additional power is made. Reduced friction is not the prime motivator behind this mod, although power gains WILL be seen in any situation where friction is reduced.

You can find your answer about how the use of roller rockers improves valvetrain harmonics if you do a search in the Advanced section.

 

You TOTALLY missed my point. I'm not talking about upgrading, I'm talking about comparison. 1.5 roller rocker compared to a 1.5 stamped steel. Not a 1.5 stamped compared to a 1.6 roller. I know the bigger ratio makes more lift, and I know power will be freed up if any friction is reduced, what I want to know is; does a roller rocker really give that much more power over a stamped steel rocker, making it worth the extra money? I still stand by the fact that stamped steel rockers do just as good a job for a better price. The roller rockers in my opinion are VERY over priced, and are given way too much credit.

 

Comon guys, we are hijacking this guys thread.

You ought to make a thread in Advanced Tech, that would be some good food for thought.

I truely do not know, although I'd like to.

 

Stamped steel rockers do fine up until a certain RPM. One of the key ingredients in revving an engine to high RPM's is VALVE CONTROL. The problem with stamped steel rockers is the way they're mounted. Since the rocker body is held to the fulcrum with nothing more than a nut and a "pivot ball," this allows the rocker body itself to have alot of freedom of movement. As a motor revs higher and the force of the pushrod reaches a higher velocity, because the stamped rocker doesn't have a fulcrum that's designed to hold it in a unilateral pattern of motion, the rocker body has a tendency to bounce around. This deflection, if pushed to an extreme enough level, can cause the rocker arm to break the tip of a pushrod off from slapping into it. If the deflection gets excessive enough, it can cause premature valve wear because the vibrations will affect the valve's ability to move in a straight line.
Roller tipped rockers solve this problem two ways: the roller tip "absorbes" a certain amount of the pushrod's velocity by rolling the tip of the rod off when the rocker reaches a certain angle. This reduces the likelihood of the rocker tip losing contact with the roller during thrust and bouncing. The second thing that roller rockers have over stamped steel is that the fulcrum is attached to a trunion that is suspended with needle bearings. This needle bearing/trunion arrangement will only allow the rocker arm the freedom of movement in a unilateral pattern, not a 360* pattern like the ball pivot of a stamped rocker will. This allows the rocker to control the valve's movement more precisely at a higher RPM.

For a motor that doesn't see much more than 5500 rpm's, a roller rocker isn't going to have that much benefit. But in a motor that's going to rev north of 6000-6300rpm's, they're no longer a luxury.

There's a reason GM changed to roller rockers in the 6,300RPM redlined LT4.

 

Now there is an answer! Thank you very much!

About hijacking the thread, sorry. I just wanted 1) an answer to my question and 2) give reason for the man to go to roller rockers.

ShibbyZ

 

Its okay.. just hijack my thread!

Anyhow thanks for the information all. I will be working on the chasis and building a platform that will respond well to the upgrades.

 

Dont forget a good cold air kit if you dont have one. Descreen/polish MAF, GOOD gas, 0-30 Synthetic oil, nice Y pipe...alot of those littler things can add up quick.

 

I have 309rwhp with : AS&M midlength headers, high flow cat, borla, Moroso CAI, 1LE elbow, TB bypass, airfoil and PCM tuning. Stock rockers, water pump, and throttle body...

 

You're also a manual. Autos are less.

 

Yea that is gonna make a difference. With an M6 its easy to do with most of the bolt-ons.

 

What does 0w-30 sythetic have to do with making 300hp? Also you should run 93 octane on a daily driver. My car suffers horribley if I don't, gas milage anyways. Also they said true duals not a whimpy Y pipe?

 

Emission Legal Headers = Death to 300rwhp dream.

 

If you get the right Y pipe it wont be wimpy..You dont know what a lighter synthetic oil has to do with horsepower? Wow, im surprised.
http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache...+gain+hp&hl=en

Low-Viscosity, High Performance Oil Our SR20DET Results (@peak):
+ 5.9 horsepower / + 2.8 lb-ft of torque
Friction and drag rob power. High-performance engine oils are formulated with friction modifiers to keep horsepower loss to a minimum. Using the correct viscosity oil, ensures that the engine produces peak power.

GM 383 build
...Royal PurpleŽ bought us 7 hp and 10 lb-ft...”

Hot Rod mag
“... a gain of 10.1 hp and 6.1 lb-ft just by switching to synthetics...in our opinion, they're worth it for cars you care about...”

 

My car is a six-speed. How much does a stock 93 LT1 dyno at ? Also where can i find a 1LE elbow? .. WTF is that long plastic piece on the stock elbow for anyway?

 

it can easily be done with just boltons. check my sig for my mods.