I have a 93 LT1 with a K&N FIPK. My goal is to wring 300RWHP out of the car before the motor grenades from old age. What mods could i do MINUS NOS to get me to 300 at the wheels?

I was thinking:

TB Air Foil
SLP Performance CHIP <-- already have it
160 T Stat <-- Already have it
Emission legal headers
Cat back exhaust (proably Flowmaster American Thunder)

Would that get me in the ball park.. or am i missing something?

 

underdrive pulley and an electric waterpump would be good things to add to the list too. i dunno about how much it would put to the wheels but that should get you in the ballpark at least! i think i remember seein somewhere that a full bolt on lt1 can make around 350hp.. but i dont remember if it was fwhp or rwhp... =/ and im sure theres a thing or two im leaving out.

 

you should hit 300 at the wheels with all the bolt ons.

 

Thanks for the reply! I didnt think about underdrive pullies. I really want to tear into the motor and bolt on a set of ported heads and a cam, but i am trying to follow my build up guidelines and work from the ground up. I'd like to get the suspension capable of using every ounce of horsepower before i spend money on the motor.

 

I have all the mods on my page, and unless you were suggesting long tubes for headers, I don't think that'll make 300 rwhp. I may be way off mark though.I would suggest Roller rockers and electric water pump to add to that. But, for more results at the track, where it really counts, get some gears. I'm adding 4.11's to mine. Suspension mods are a must as well. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

 

Smooth Intake Elbow. (Vortech or Trick Flow)
Throttle Body Bypass.
1.6 Roller Rockers.

 

Whats does the throttle body bypass do? how much power will that give me ?

 

you redirect your coolant so it doenst run through your throttle body. the result, cooler intake temps and about 2 hp

 

waste of money unless you want it for looks.

 

I did it with a factory 97 SS with these mods
Mac mid lenght headers
LT4 KM
1.6 RR
298 RWHP/321 TQ 13.7@104 mph

Thats less then 600 bux too


Just for your info, the next thin i did was go to hooker LTs and my et dropped to 12.8 @ 112 mph
So im sure you will get well over 300 with a simular setup as long as everything else is up to snuff


Im along way from 300 hp now though

 

It's not a waste of money once he realizes that the resonator tube that hangs down under his stock intake elbow is causing a serious problem with him installing his aftermarket electric water pump. But okay...I guess he could just get a 1LE elbow.

 

I see where you were going with the smooth intake elbow. I probably wont go with the electric pump.. I will on my replacement motor, but probably not on this one. I did forget roller rockers .. and i am sure that will help a bit. Thanks all!

 

LT's
1.6 R/Rs
exhaust

All three can be used on future builds and will get you close with a good tune

 

I'd do..

Long Tube headers
catback exhaust / true duals (kill the cat if you can)
1.6 roller rockers
cold air intake
electric waterpump
1LE intake elbow
throttle body bypass
custom tuning from PCMforLess (your a 93 guy, speak with Alvin from PCMforLess, he will get you GREAT gains.....expecially since your a 93)
fresh plugs/wires/fuel filter to keep the car in tip top shape


This SHOULD get you 300rwhp or near.

Come check out us 1993 F-body speed density owners at www.speeddensity.org

 

Just a question for thought here...

How much horsepower does a roller rocker free up over a stamped one?

Yes i know the whole theory behind it and crap. It's to reduce friction and strain. But seriously, how much power are we talking about gaining if you went with 1.5 rollers over just a 1.5 stamped metal one?

Now if you'll please think about this...

The rocker arm moves up and down and pushes the valves open/close. You would think that if there was so much friction there in the first place, which brings about the roller rocker, then the rocker arm would be a high fatigue and high wear area/item. If there is so much wear and stress there they need roller rockers to reduce that, then why don't stamped steal ones break? I have never heard of a stamped rocker arm breaking or wearing out on ANY car. You would think eventually the tip would wear out and break off or cause some kind of damage. Why doesn't it? Personally I see no need for roller rockers over stamped steel ones.

If anyone can change my mind, please show me dyno numbers proving you are getting 10 or more horsepower out of rollers over stamped. If it is around 2-5 horsepower gain, I do not think it is worth the money.

Just something for thought!