LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Jet-Hot Questions?

Old Nov 28, 2003 | 06:36 PM
  #1  
TN94Z's Avatar
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Jet-Hot Questions?

I am about to buy a set of Jet-Hot LT's for my 94 LT1 and I had a few questions. We don't have emission checks around here, so is there any reason to buy the headers w/02 bungs or 02 extenders? Or can I just program them out with TunerCat?
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 06:44 PM
  #2  
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Get the O2 bungs. Car needs them to run in closed loop. Don't get the AIR fittings and remove the air pump since the CAT is going too. Also, get the 12" extensions for both sides. That is the perfect length. That's about it.


Jeff D.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 08:09 PM
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O2 bungs are standard in the Jet-Hots, so you won't have to worry about that. And Jeff pretty much got the rest.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 08:13 PM
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Make sure you know what you're getting in to.

When I bought my Jet Hots I ended up with about $3-400 in extras easily.

You need, or you probably want...
.. a Y pipe ($169)
.. quality gaskets (copper $35)
.. quality bolts (stg 8 locking $35)
.. OTVC wires ($100)
.. new plugs (I used iridiums, $15-40 depending on the plug)
.. O2 sensor extensions ($40)

Other helpful things:
.. Ultra copper RTV
.. PB Blaster
etc etc.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 11:20 PM
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Yeah, the o2 bungs are standard on them. You don't want the AIR fittings, that is the way I ordered mine.

Also like TheHeadFL said you will have to get some extras with it. I ended up getting the Mufflex Y pipe $249, OTVC wires from Thunder Racing $100, and the extensions.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 11:37 PM
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Sorry to ask a question in your thread, but I didnt want to start a new thread for a similar question. Im getting a set of jet hots and I have a 94 z28, but I need to run the cat, do I buy a dual pipe cat or buy the y pipe and put a cat on it and then the cat back exhaust?? Or could anyone just show me a link to what I need, sorry for stealing your thread, I just didnt want to make everyone read a new thread about the same thing.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 11:51 PM
  #7  
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Unless you get a dual cat pipe, the only other place I see on my car anyway to stick a cat is where the pipe angles up to go over the rear axle. You could fit one there. OR directly at the end of the Y pipe.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 11:54 PM
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As far as header bolts go, skip the Stage 8 bolts and get the Breslin Splitlocks. They work alot better.

I'm pretty sure you can't place a cat that far back cause it won't heat up enough to work properly. Look at what the header maker suggests as far as keeping the cats with their LT headers.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 11:56 PM
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Originally posted by TheHeadFL
Make sure you know what you're getting in to.

When I bought my Jet Hots I ended up with about $3-400 in extras easily.

You need, or you probably want...
.. a Y pipe ($169)
.. quality gaskets (copper $35)
.. quality bolts (stg 8 locking $35)
.. OTVC wires ($100)
.. new plugs (I used iridiums, $15-40 depending on the plug)
.. O2 sensor extensions ($40)

Other helpful things:
.. Ultra copper RTV
.. PB Blaster
etc etc.
Yes, but O2 extensions are not necessary, if you have some wire layin around splice it up and save yourself the $35 for the same thing, kinda like the CAGS eliminator for $40 that is just a $.02 resistor in a piece of plastic. And save yourself the $100 on OTVC wires, especially Taylor since they arent that great, and get a good set of Moroso or MSDs and route them yourself. And on the plugs get some bosch platinum (singles) or NGK TR55s for $16 for all of them. Stage 8s are cool but Ive never had any problems with ARP regular header bolts for $13. Dont skimp on the gaskets though.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 12:02 AM
  #10  
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I used Fel-Pro gaskets and ARP bolts, which I will use again after my head swap this winter. I bought 2 12" O2 extentions for like $18.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 02:00 AM
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I run the Iridium plugs by choice having had personal experience with all sorts of varieties (would never use Bosch again).

I disagree on the Taylors, the way they are run with the OTVC design puts them nowhere even remotely close to burning, and you can see nearly the entire length of wire so should it arc, you can see exactly where.

EDIT: I also used the Stage 8 bolts due to the allen head and how easy it makes them to access with a ratchet.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 10:16 AM
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Im not disagreeing with you on the quality of what you used, except the Taylors.

The plugs are good, and the bolts are good, just not necessary.

The wires are nice to see the whole thing and keep them out of the way, but the wires themselves are crappy, and routing them that way just isnt necessary, you could, if on budget, route them totally out of the way for way less then that.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 10:48 AM
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You probably could get them out of the way cheaper, but I really like how easy the wires make it to keep an eye on all the wires to make sure thay aren't in any danger of getting burnt. Plus I like the way it looks.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 04:02 PM
  #14  
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If I don't like the Taylors, I'll use all the looms and crap with a set of cut to length MSDs or something.
Old Nov 29, 2003 | 05:51 PM
  #15  
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Man, thanks for all of the replies...wasn't expecting this much . It will be spring before I install anyway because I am going to do them at the same time I do my cam swap, which I am still buying parts for (buying a little bit along the way makes it easier on the pocket book). I have a buddy that is going to sale me his 4" Mufflex exhaust with y-pipe, so that is taken care of. I was planning on going with the MSD wires, b/c 100.00 seems kind of steep when I can get the MSD and route them myself. As for plugs I have already decided on the NGK's...and I was gonna use ARP bolts anyway. But I will definately spend some cheese on a good set of gaskets. Like I said it will be this spring before I do this install, but I figured that since Jet-Hot was having a good deal on the GP then I would jump on that while it was cheap. Once again thanks for all of the suggestions.
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