its been a long time
#1
its been a long time
hey guys its been forever that ive been on here, well heres what happened i got a nissan sentra used my camaro for trade value,now i want to buy this one that i saw from craigslist,i met up with the guy tried it out,he told me it has a loose rocker arm,and u can hear the ticking sound,and the other is the clutch will need to be changed. It also has long tube headers and i will need to switch it out to original y pipe to make sure it passes smog,ac and egr are deleted too. He's asking 3000 for it,is it worth it? Will it be ok to drive it with a loose rocker arm,i have a mechanic for the clutch issue. thank u guys and tell me what you think.
Details 94 z with 130xxx on the body.
Motor has been gone through about 3000 miles ago and had all gaskets replaced head gaskets main seal etc
Always keep the maintenance up on it. Always take care of the car.
It has normal 20 year old scratches. And a few issues.
It does tick right this second it's just a loose rocker arm. I know if because I fixed it. And it just needs a new arm
It has full bolt ons. Car made 330 hp I have papers to prove it
Took back seats out but still have them
I have a bunch of new motor parts from new
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Timing chain
Stage 3 clutch from comp
Etc. That for the right price I will throw in
And also another motor sitting in my garage ..
With lt4 heads and intake
I have receipts for everything and casting numbers
Make me some offers thanks !
Details 94 z with 130xxx on the body.
Motor has been gone through about 3000 miles ago and had all gaskets replaced head gaskets main seal etc
Always keep the maintenance up on it. Always take care of the car.
It has normal 20 year old scratches. And a few issues.
It does tick right this second it's just a loose rocker arm. I know if because I fixed it. And it just needs a new arm
It has full bolt ons. Car made 330 hp I have papers to prove it
Took back seats out but still have them
I have a bunch of new motor parts from new
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Timing chain
Stage 3 clutch from comp
Etc. That for the right price I will throw in
And also another motor sitting in my garage ..
With lt4 heads and intake
I have receipts for everything and casting numbers
Make me some offers thanks !
#2
Re: its been a long time
A "loose rocker arm" would take no more than a half hour to correct - adjust or replace. I'd be a bit suspicious that is the only problem.
What emissions do you have to meet - visual, dyno tailpipe, and/or PCM scan? Missing EGR can cause it to fail emissions due to high NOx (tailpipe if they test for NOx, visual, PCM code/SES light). You can't just put the stock Y-pipe on the long tubes, you would have to either add a cat to the current Y-pipe (meets tailpipe, but not visual) or swap the stock manifolds and Y-pipe back in.
You indicate "ac and EGR are deleted"..... do you possibly mean "AIR and EGR"..... AIR could add another small complication.
What emissions do you have to meet - visual, dyno tailpipe, and/or PCM scan? Missing EGR can cause it to fail emissions due to high NOx (tailpipe if they test for NOx, visual, PCM code/SES light). You can't just put the stock Y-pipe on the long tubes, you would have to either add a cat to the current Y-pipe (meets tailpipe, but not visual) or swap the stock manifolds and Y-pipe back in.
You indicate "ac and EGR are deleted"..... do you possibly mean "AIR and EGR"..... AIR could add another small complication.
Last edited by Injuneer; 07-09-2014 at 10:24 AM.
#3
Re: its been a long time
A "loose rocker arm" would take no more than a half hour to correct - adjust or replace. I'd be a bit suspicious that is the only problem.
What emissions do you have to meet - visual, dyno tailpipe, and/or PCM scan? Missing EGR can cause it to fail emissions due to high NOx (tailpipe if they test for NOx, visual, PCM code/SES light). You can't just put the stock Y-pipe on the long tubes, you would have to either add a cat to the current Y-pipe (meets tailpipe, but not visual) or swap the stock manifolds and Y-pipe back in.
You indicate "ac and EGR are deleted"..... do you possibly mean "AIR and EGR"..... AIR could add another small complication.
What emissions do you have to meet - visual, dyno tailpipe, and/or PCM scan? Missing EGR can cause it to fail emissions due to high NOx (tailpipe if they test for NOx, visual, PCM code/SES light). You can't just put the stock Y-pipe on the long tubes, you would have to either add a cat to the current Y-pipe (meets tailpipe, but not visual) or swap the stock manifolds and Y-pipe back in.
You indicate "ac and EGR are deleted"..... do you possibly mean "AIR and EGR"..... AIR could add another small complication.
On the emissions testing i believe when i had my camaro before i gave it away,the guy opened my hood looked inside the engine area,looked underneath the car,stuck a metal rod in the tail pipe....and thats all i can remember, then ran the tests to the computer. I'm sorry he told me hes gonna put the cats back on for emissions testing i forgot to put that in the last thread. On the deleting thing i mentioned its air conditioning is taken out, and he deleted the EGR too.Thank you for you response Fred, it's great that your still here man. I havent bought the car yet
#4
Re: its been a long time
Clutch story sounds plausible.
Security light staying on means one of the components in the PASS-Key system has failed, and the system is bypassed, eliminating the theft protection.
The engine is designed to run at 210*F. The fans don't even turn on until 226*F with stock programming. Anyone who has not changed to the 160*F t'stat will see the needle in the middle of the gauge - not too hot, and will not damage seals and gaskets. Sounds like a real BS artist. Not a good way he's handled it. If it's still got the stock 180*F t'stat, the fans are fighting the t'stat.
The 94 only had one cat. If he has long tubes, not sure if it can be reinstalled. If he put a cat in each branch of the long tubes, it would be a violation of Federal law, which prohibits relocating or changing the number of cats on the car.
Security light staying on means one of the components in the PASS-Key system has failed, and the system is bypassed, eliminating the theft protection.
The engine is designed to run at 210*F. The fans don't even turn on until 226*F with stock programming. Anyone who has not changed to the 160*F t'stat will see the needle in the middle of the gauge - not too hot, and will not damage seals and gaskets. Sounds like a real BS artist. Not a good way he's handled it. If it's still got the stock 180*F t'stat, the fans are fighting the t'stat.
The 94 only had one cat. If he has long tubes, not sure if it can be reinstalled. If he put a cat in each branch of the long tubes, it would be a violation of Federal law, which prohibits relocating or changing the number of cats on the car.
#5
Re: its been a long time
It's worth noting that federal law has already been violated, when the original cat was removed. It's also worth noting that the inspector probably has no idea what the stock setup was.
#6
Re: its been a long time
Clutch story sounds plausible.
Security light staying on means one of the components in the PASS-Key system has failed, and the system is bypassed, eliminating the theft protection.
The engine is designed to run at 210*F. The fans don't even turn on until 226*F with stock programming. Anyone who has not changed to the 160*F t'stat will see the needle in the middle of the gauge - not too hot, and will not damage seals and gaskets. Sounds like a real BS artist. Not a good way he's handled it. If it's still got the stock 180*F t'stat, the fans are fighting the t'stat.
The 94 only had one cat. If he has long tubes, not sure if it can be reinstalled. If he put a cat in each branch of the long tubes, it would be a violation of Federal law, which prohibits relocating or changing the number of cats on the car.
Security light staying on means one of the components in the PASS-Key system has failed, and the system is bypassed, eliminating the theft protection.
The engine is designed to run at 210*F. The fans don't even turn on until 226*F with stock programming. Anyone who has not changed to the 160*F t'stat will see the needle in the middle of the gauge - not too hot, and will not damage seals and gaskets. Sounds like a real BS artist. Not a good way he's handled it. If it's still got the stock 180*F t'stat, the fans are fighting the t'stat.
The 94 only had one cat. If he has long tubes, not sure if it can be reinstalled. If he put a cat in each branch of the long tubes, it would be a violation of Federal law, which prohibits relocating or changing the number of cats on the car.
#7
Re: its been a long time
As Jake points out, they may or may not notice or even know the cats have been relocated and changed. That's where your knowledge of the local enforcement comes in. In NJ they had mobile emissions units that would set up on a street or highway, pull cars over at random, and do a complete dyno emissions check, and a full visual by people who knew exactly what they were looking at. Fortunately, budget constraints seem to have eliminated those units.
#8
Re: its been a long time
As Jake points out, they may or may not notice or even know the cats have been relocated and changed. That's where your knowledge of the local enforcement comes in. In NJ they had mobile emissions units that would set up on a street or highway, pull cars over at random, and do a complete dyno emissions check, and a full visual by people who knew exactly what they were looking at. Fortunately, budget constraints seem to have eliminated those units.
#9
Re: its been a long time
Side Note - I worked at a garage in high school and college. I am not sure what the newsletter was the owner received but I will never forget reading an article that read that over 97% of atmospheric pollution comes from big industry. Automobiles made up less than 2% so if it is an LT1 car, see i you can get Classic Plates and avoid the whole emissions scam altogether ...
#10
Re: its been a long time
I ended up buying the car guys,got the clutch changed,rocker arm wasnt loose,got oil,spark plugs,fuel filter changed,got an emergency brake cable put in didnt have one (Very scary why this guy didnt have one)my mechanic charged me 680,inspected the whole vehicle no problems drove it to work and back love it!!!!
But i have a couple of things to ask.
1.my oil pressure is at like 55 to 50 psi on cold start,after running and fully warmed,like 20 to17 psi,is that ok oil pressure?using 10w 30 motor oil.The guy i bought the car from said i should use 15w50 oil,do i need to use that one or am i fine using the 10 30 one,its 94 to like 106 now in las vegas nv
2.i have a 160 tstat in and the fans are running temp will stay 180 to185 in the car do i need to get that fixed to stock temp or leave it be.
3.i have the y pipe sitting in the back seat,if i switched that and took the cats out would that give me more power, and put the cats in upon next years registration renewal.
Thank you guys im back now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
But i have a couple of things to ask.
1.my oil pressure is at like 55 to 50 psi on cold start,after running and fully warmed,like 20 to17 psi,is that ok oil pressure?using 10w 30 motor oil.The guy i bought the car from said i should use 15w50 oil,do i need to use that one or am i fine using the 10 30 one,its 94 to like 106 now in las vegas nv
2.i have a 160 tstat in and the fans are running temp will stay 180 to185 in the car do i need to get that fixed to stock temp or leave it be.
3.i have the y pipe sitting in the back seat,if i switched that and took the cats out would that give me more power, and put the cats in upon next years registration renewal.
Thank you guys im back now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by 94Z28LS1toLT1; 08-06-2014 at 10:03 PM.
#11
Re: its been a long time
Use what the manufacture recommends - 5W-30. 10W-30 is acceptable if the ambient temperature is not below 0degF. The GM spec for minimum idle oil pressure is 6psi. That's when the "check gauges" light come on. 17-20psi at hot idle is acceptable, although indicative of some engine wear. What is the pressure at 2,000 RPM ..... at 4,000 RPM?
The fans should not be running all the time. Stock programming is first fan (or both at low speed for late 94 production) on at 226*F, 2nd fan (or both on high) at 235*F. To get the benefits of the 160* t'stat (small HP gain) the PCM is usually reprogrammed for a lower temp. Might be worth checking PCM for codes, because some codes cause the fans to run all the time. Or maybe they just programmed it to run the fans at those temps.
You only have one cat.... if it's still the original, it's welded to the end of the Y-pipe. Deleting the cat doesn't do much in the way of extra HP.
The fans should not be running all the time. Stock programming is first fan (or both at low speed for late 94 production) on at 226*F, 2nd fan (or both on high) at 235*F. To get the benefits of the 160* t'stat (small HP gain) the PCM is usually reprogrammed for a lower temp. Might be worth checking PCM for codes, because some codes cause the fans to run all the time. Or maybe they just programmed it to run the fans at those temps.
You only have one cat.... if it's still the original, it's welded to the end of the Y-pipe. Deleting the cat doesn't do much in the way of extra HP.
#12
Re: its been a long time
Use what the manufacture recommends - 5W-30. 10W-30 is acceptable if the ambient temperature is not below 0degF. The GM spec for minimum idle oil pressure is 6psi. That's when the "check gauges" light come on. 17-20psi at hot idle is acceptable, although indicative of some engine wear. What is the pressure at 2,000 RPM ..... at 4,000 RPM?
The fans should not be running all the time. Stock programming is first fan (or both at low speed for late 94 production) on at 226*F, 2nd fan (or both on high) at 235*F. To get the benefits of the 160* t'stat (small HP gain) the PCM is usually reprogrammed for a lower temp. Might be worth checking PCM for codes, because some codes cause the fans to run all the time. Or maybe they just programmed it to run the fans at those temps.
You only have one cat.... if it's still the original, it's welded to the end of the Y-pipe. Deleting the cat doesn't do much in the way of extra HP.
The fans should not be running all the time. Stock programming is first fan (or both at low speed for late 94 production) on at 226*F, 2nd fan (or both on high) at 235*F. To get the benefits of the 160* t'stat (small HP gain) the PCM is usually reprogrammed for a lower temp. Might be worth checking PCM for codes, because some codes cause the fans to run all the time. Or maybe they just programmed it to run the fans at those temps.
You only have one cat.... if it's still the original, it's welded to the end of the Y-pipe. Deleting the cat doesn't do much in the way of extra HP.
Pcm has no codes,fans just are either wired or programmed to stay on,i guess ill just keep the cat on
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