Ok, so, I'm finally getting around to installing a set of Jet-Hot LTs and a Hooker Y-pipe this coming weekend. I figured I'd hit you guys up with my list of parts and what-not just to make sure I didn't forget anything. Anything missing from my list? Also, note that I was going to go with an emissions setup initially, but due to Jet-Hots delay of their dual-cat y-pipe I decided to go !CAT for now (but will be switching to their y-pipe when it's released).

• Jet-Hot LTs w/emissions
• Felpro 1406 exhaust gasket set
• ARP SS Header bolts
• M22 AIR hookups (for connecting AIR on '96/'97 OBD2)
• Hooker 3" y-pipe (no cats for now, will add cats next Spring)
• (3) 3" band clamps
• (2) 3" collector gaskets
• (2) O2 simms
• (2) O2 extenders
• Taylor OVC wires and made-for-you looms
• NGK TR55 plugs
• New ignition coil
• LT4 Knock Module (headers are a lot noiser than iron manifolds; PCM may pick up false-knock unless LT4 KM is used)
• High-temp RTV
• Mechanix gloves
• BFH
• Assorted SAE/MM sockets and extensions
• Sparkplug socket (with hex head for wrench)
• PB Blaster
• Blue painters tape from Home Depot (in the painting stuff) for wrapping headers to protect ceramic finish during installation. (Medical bandage tape was recommended too)
• Long zipties to aid in relocating wires

Other things recommended in follow-up posts or found via research:

• Exhaust weld (it's a tan colored cream) from AutoZone or similiar would be helpful; used to ensure the EGR tube connector on the header is truly sealed.
• Stick old oil dipstick tupe in freezer for a while before reinstallation; this shrinks the tube slightly; then remove it, oil the end of it, and reinstall it (be prepared to buy a new dip stick tube though; ~$15 from dealer) (Read the follow-up posts below for other ideas on reinstalling the oil dip-stick)
• New oil filter (easier to install headers if oil filter is removed)
• New motor mounts (pref polyurethane mounts) may be needed if current are sagging/worn (search for "47-7-508" at http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1069)
• You may have to remove the passenger-side motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly to get the passenger-side header installed.
• Relocate any wiring that will be close to the headers AFTER removing the old manifolds/exhaust and BEFORE installing new headers; it's hard to do it after your headers are installed (16-guage insulated wire can be used to extend existing wires).
• Heat shielding for the A/C condensor (??) may be a good idea
• Plug-wire heat shielding is a wise investment
• It'd be wise to replace the front O2 sensors if the current set has over 60k miles on them
• The hooker y-pipe may not fit perfectly, requiring a trip to a muffler shop to adjust it.

INSTALLATION GUIDES:

• 96-97 f-body: http://zmydust.com/headers/install.htm

Anything else?

On more thing, can I get away with reusing my pre-cat O2s since they're working fine at the moment? They're currently the originals with 94k miles on them (I suppose I SHOULD change them).

 

hello good luck with the install,some people have to jack the motor up some don't,with mine i had to for both headers,when i did that i noticed me engine mounts were sagging,do yourself a huge favor buy some polyuerathane engine and transmission mounts you will be glad you did. thunderracing has them. see you good luck oh yea 02 extenders

 

Your list looks good:

I'd get a couple rolls of medical bandage...the type that sticks to itself and is used for spraines, etc. I wrapped this around my headers on install. It prevents the coating from getting scratched while wrestling them in.
You will probably need to remove the oil filter to get the driver side header in...so plan on one of those too.
Last item...long zip-ties. And some 16 gauge insulated wire. I had to extend the knock sensor wire on the passanger side. I also used several zip-ties to tie off wires, etc. I used my stock wiring, so I had to take extra care so they wouldn't get burned.

Another suggestion would be a new oil dipstick tube. The origional has to be removed to install the headers. If it gets bent it will not go back in. A lot of people say this is the hardest part of the install. It only took five minutes to install a new one though. It ran $15 at the dealership.

The Y-pipe, if it's like mine was...will probably not line up correctly. I had to spend another $90 at a muffler shop to get the Hooker Y-pipe modified to work on my 97.

Some exhaust weld (it's a tan colored cream) from AutoZone or similiar would be helpful. I used it to ensure the EGR tube connector was truly sealed.

Finally, be prepared to grind the drivers side of your trans mount for clearance. The headers fit fine....but the driver side collector pipe wouldn't bolt in due to the lip on the trans mount brace. I used a grinder to remove the lip.

Have fun...I spent about 20 hours and a lot of obsenities to get mine installed. It was worth it in the end though.

Sorry this was so long.... keep thinking of things that I found out the hard way.

Schantin
1997 Camaro Z28

 

Buy a new dipstick. I spent hours trying to get mine in. It was on a sunday so I couldn't even order it from the dealer until Monday and then I would have had to wait longer. I HATE that thing.

 

or just cut your old one, slip a piece of fuel lin over both ends and press together to reinstall. A few people have done that.

 

Just sand down the dipstick tube really good and hammer it in. Don't cut it and no need to buy another. Your list looks good. Have gaskets for the flanges where the collector meets the y-pipe?

 

heres a great write up on how to do the install on 96-97 cars

heres my own tips:

get some sandpaper and sand the end of the dipstick that goes into the engine.......make sure its nice and smooth, then coat it with some oil...........it should slide in pretty easy.............if it doest go all the way in, just get a long screwdriver and tap the dipstick support from the top.

usually the cause when your passenger side header looks like its gonna run into the tranny crossmember, is because of the motor mounts.

the driver expands and the passenger side crushes over time, because the engine twists under power. over time this raises the driver side of the engine, which means the header collector is too high and aims at the tranny crossmember.

i replaced my passenger side (pita by yourself), and was too lazy to replace the driver side after all that, but it definetly helped the clearance. then i ground the lip off of my tranny cross member and my 3" piping never hits.

pic of grinding
another pic

 

just wanted to post so i could find this thread later on...

good tips guys!!

 

I updated my original post with information you guys recommended as well as information I found research the 'net. Thanks for everyone's responses...this board is INVALUABLE!

 

Couple of cold ones. You will need some cold ones.

 

I'm installing my Jet hot LTs this weekend, this info has been valuable to me, I'll let you guys know how it goes!

 

I'm 1/2 way there...5hrs of work over the weekend and I was able to remove both manifolds and the factory dual-cat y-pipe. Just make sure you have an assortment of short and long 3/8" socket extensions and a socket swivel. Also deep sockets are a must. Also, the night before you plan on doing the install, get the car jacked up real high (be safe) and then crawl under there and spray PB Blaster on every manifold and y-pipe bolt you can see/reach. Do this the night before and again right before you try to remove them. This will make things easier.

All I have left is cleaning up the engine bay area and install the LTs and OVC wires.

 

Looks like I'm half way there then. I had hooker shorty headers and y-pipe already on there, those are already off and shipped to the person who bought them. Took me about 3.5 hours to get those off this past saturday, including jack up time and other time including removing the spark plugs, steering linkage, and putting the car back down to the ground, etc etc, so I hope the LT install goes smoothly. I'll be jacking it up that morning I start, I didn't feel comfortable leaving my car jacked up all week.