i got some hooker long tubes with a mufflex y-pipe. i'm planning on installing them myself with the help of some friends. i've done mid-lengths and shorties on an LT1 and done headers on LS1's a ton of times... but i've never installed LT's on an LT1. i was wondering if anyone had done it and if you could give me any directions or advice...

i know i'm going to have to have my O2's welded tomorrow before we start working on them. a guy who's done LT's on an LT1 before is gonna help... he said we'll just drop the motor mounts and jack the engine up cuz it'll make it a lot easier to install. he also said we'd have to extend the O2 sensors to make them reach the holes i'm having welded for them. with both of us working on it, he said it'd only take us 4 to 5 hours cuz he's done it so many times before.

anybody got an suggestions or anything? thanx in advance, i can use whatever help you can give.

- jay

 

Driver's side, only extra thing that had to be removed was the oil filter and maybe the steering linkage since the #1 primary goes around it. Passenger side, alternator, starter and unbolt the passenger side motor mount, put a cinderblock on the jack and get that baby up in the air.

 

Had to do everything that showtime said and get the dremel and maybe saw out for "customizing" the y pipe fit. Also, you may want to get some fire sleeves for a couple of the pass side plug wires.

 

I think you've got it down.. just take your time.

You may not need to jack both sides of the engine up.. If I remember correctly we only loosened the pass engine mount and used a block of wood under the oil pan (I didn't want the jack bending or marring the pan). You may also have to lengthen some other wires and reroute them.. I think I lenghtened a starter wire and a ground and maybe a sensor wire too... just use your best judgement I guess. I also understand that the heater box (I think that's what it is).. it's on the pass side on the fire wall.. anyways, it is way too close to the primaries esp. if the headers aren't coated.. I fabbed up a heat shield out of sheet metal and it's been fine for almost a year now. Also, OVC wires and looms are highly reccomended.. you can buy the kit but I had good luck modifying some cheap autozone ones and they've been working great also. Make sure you have lots of zip ties too. Don't use the gasket that comes with the headers.. buy felpro it's worth it. Oh, and some new bolts would be a must also.. the stage 8 locking bolts worked great for me.. that alan wrench head made things quicker for sure.

Have fun.. and buy some beer or pain killers.. you'll need something for all the headaches

 

Hey showtime.....you had dual cats on that right? Man I'm trying to figure out how it will work with my car? Isn't the Trans the came as the camaro? thanks

S.J.S.

 

Why are you guys jacking up the motor?? Easier access or something?? Also on the passenger side whats the bolt size for the EGR hookup? Will also have to remove the dipstick. And what's the reason for removing the starter?

 

The Trans Am is the same as the Camaro so the install is basically the same. I think you can get away without undoing the steering linkage. If I needed a bit more space I turned the wheels to straighten/unstraighten the linkage. I didnt take that or the oil filter off because that wasnt even close to being in the way. If you do it right you can get that driver's side header in there without jacking up the motor. Mine slid right in with about 10 seconds of wiggling. Pass. side definitely needs to be jacked up no doubt. I believe everything else was covered and you have an experienced guy to help so you're set. Also I have the Taylor OVC kit and it is well worth it. Good luck.

 

The motor needs to be jacked up because theres no way the header is sliding in between the bellhousing of the tranny and k-member (only pass side problem on my car). I THINK the EGR bolts on the manifold were 10mm, they were something small like that. The starter MUST come out because its in the way of getting the header in through the bottom. Once you get under the car you'll see.

 

awesome, thanx guys.

the guy that's helping me said that the only wires we'd have to lengthen would be the O2's... i guess we'll see when we get to that point. good to know i'm not going to have to jack the engine up on both sides tho. we've got a "homemade" way to do the OVC kit, so i didn't have to buy it. every time he's done it, he's done it the same way and never had any problems, so i trust that it'll work. thanx for all the insight.

- jay

 

Yeah, I had to jack the motor up cause my jackstands weren't high enough to rotate the headers to get them to fit. The end of the collector was hitting the floor of the garage. Yeah, I had dual cats, no more cats. I just had a custom y-pipe made for $150 and I went with the casper O2 sims for the back and just got new Delco sensors for the fronts. Also did the OTVC wire looms. Put header tape on the #8 wire down low as well as one of the starter wires and an O2 sensor wire. The steering linkage I could have probably done with out removing, just made it A LOT easier.
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No more super long wires now.

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