ign/ltcc question
ign/ltcc question
ok heres the break down i have a 96 z28 with a 383 stroker..bought a ltcc unit that when installed would start at one point in time but not run good or long....put stock opti in it again and ran with misses...shortly after{like 15min or so and about 1/2 mile}my rotor blew to pieces....put ltcc back in after fixing the one opti....nothing...sent out unit for checking all is good with it.....koeo pressure is 38....i have pulse at the #1 inj.....i have spark at #1 plug{now i thought it should be faster but maybe not its about 1 spark per second}.....i believe 1 have the ltcc coils well grounded{all coils bracketed together and 2 coil grounds together and sent to intake bolts in 4 spots plus the coils grounded straight to the battery}..coils are all new...wires are taylor spirals....new plugs.......now when i retested again with the opti all i did was actually swap out the sensor which could be bad but doubt....i'm lost here...any ideas or suggestions
well tried getting a new opti in my area but the cheapest i could find was almost 400 so i went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered a msd unit that will hopefully be here on monday to give it a shot.....worst case is i can sell the ltcc unit if i cant figure this out or at least then decide if i wanna run it off the msd or use the msd stand alone...also ordered a balancer/underdrive combo to hopefully solve my original rotor breaking prob.....hopefully this will work and i can actually drive this thing for awhile till i ship out again
Hard to follow the sequence of events.
You installed an LTCC. Ran poorly. Then you say you installed the stock Opti? What Opti were you using with the LTCC? An aftermarket Opti? Did you disconnect the LTCC when you put the stock Opti back in?
Put LTCC back in after fixing the one Opti. What Opti is this? The one that you originally had with the LTCC, and then replcaed with a stock Opti?
"i retested again with the opti all i did was actually swap out the sensor " What sensor?
Why would a combination UD pulley/damper (there is no balancer) solve your problem with breaking the rotor? Did you not have a damper on it when the rotor "blew to pieces"?
You installed an LTCC. Ran poorly. Then you say you installed the stock Opti? What Opti were you using with the LTCC? An aftermarket Opti? Did you disconnect the LTCC when you put the stock Opti back in?
Put LTCC back in after fixing the one Opti. What Opti is this? The one that you originally had with the LTCC, and then replcaed with a stock Opti?
"i retested again with the opti all i did was actually swap out the sensor " What sensor?
Why would a combination UD pulley/damper (there is no balancer) solve your problem with breaking the rotor? Did you not have a damper on it when the rotor "blew to pieces"?
ok i couldnt get a new opti cheap in my area after calling and calling around....a gm opti would cost me only about a hundred or so less here then a msd unit so thats what i went with.....the actual "senor"i replaced was i tried a couple othe opti sencors that i had laying around so i swapped them in with no prevail....and yes as i already have given myself the stupid award i was running a u/d pulley with no balancer hence me figuring that prob had alot to do with first wp going then 2 opti rotors then timing chain then 2 more rotors so for the price of a replacement balancer to piggyback my u/d i got a combination one that combines an u/d and balancer......i've been trying and trying all routes with my ltcc unit but am figuring a bad or going bad opti isnt enough to turn the ltcc over........when i first installed it on my opti it would run but not good.....with just the opti being used it would run and then miss throughout the rpm's....rotor blew up...threadlocked all the screws{which i later found threadlock all over everything inside my opti...which i cant imagine is good for it}....put things back together without the rotor and nothing....i have a weak spark/fuel/inj pulsing/no start....all i can assume is the opti is not good
My motor was down over a year and seven months and I just put it together last month. I bought one of the original LTCC setups in early 2003. I, too, thought I had a problem with the LTCC when the car wouldn't start. It turned out that one of the two optis (neither of them mine) in my parts box I got back from the shop that screwed up my car/engine was bad. After I got over being pissed that the shop had kept my original Opti (Hey, it was the original 96 Opti on the car but I *KNEW* it worked when the shop got the car) I looked at the two opti's they'd given me. One was pristine, looked brand new. The other looked like someone had sprayed it with oil, then drug it down a dirt road. Given the visuals, I put on the one that looked new. I continued to assemble the motor then put it in the car and tried to start it. No spark. I checked everything, using the diagnostic procedures in the manual. Eventually, it pointed to the Opti. To verify, I pulled off the LTCC's cover and watched the two LED's (one green, the other Red) while I cranked the motor. The red would illuminate during key on, then go out. The green would either not ever illuminate or it would flicker on and off at a high rate of speed. What the Green SHOULD be doing during cranking is illuminated solidly, no flickering. The solid green means that the LTCC has synch'd with the Opti and all is good from that perspective. Solid green means the Opti is sending the correct signals and the LTCC is working properly. So, with mine NOT having the solid green and the manual indicating it was the Opti, I looked over at the gruesome Opti dripping oily dirt and winced. Sighing, I cleaned off the goo on the ugly duckling Opti, preparing to swap it for the pristine appearing opti on the motor. Then I thought, "Hey, I can test this w/o removing the opti on the motor! I'll pull the opti connector off the motors opti and plug it into this filthy opti and just spin the rotor by hand. If the LTCC green light comes on and stays on, I've found the problem, ie: the pristine opti is crap!". So I took off the alternator to access the Opti connector, disconnected it, then plugged it into the handheld opti. I then turned the key to the "on" position, went back to the handheld opti and watched the LTCC LED's as I spun the opti rotor with my fingers. Viola!!! I heard the fuel pump come on and the injectors clicking as the Green LED illuminated brightly. Knowing now that the Opti was bad, I swapped the ugly opti for the pretty one and the car fired up! So, pull the cover off your LTCC, plug in a hand held Opti (sounds like you have some laying around), turn on the key and spin the opti to see if your light comes on. By the way, the rotation of the Opti when you spin it makes a difference. When I was showing this test of my opti to a friend and he spun it, the green light didn't come on. I looked over in disgust at first because I thought my problem had returned. But then, I noticed he was spinning it in the opposite direction (clockwise with the backside of the opti pointing up) than I had. I said, "spin it the opposite direction", he did and the green LED came on. Whew!!!!
well havent retried to see if i can bet the ltcc working but put in a new msd unit......less then 2 cranks on a poorly charged battery and she fired right up after a 1/2 year of sitting......very happy to hear the motor again...now all i have to do is get the right oil in her...fresh fuel and see if i can straighten out how it is running and not get high when i smell the exhaust fumes kicken from it....lol...it was funny had my whole neighborhood out lookin to see what was goin on when they heardit rev..i guess if i'm gonna keep it where im at now i'll have to do something with the exhaust before they call all my not-so-buddies on me...lol
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