A little clarification on steels:

"chromoly" refers to a steel having chromium and molybdenum as primary alloying elements. They comprise a fraction of a percent of the steel. These give extra strength, especially if the steel is heat treated after machining.

Steel grades 4130 and 4140 are the basic "Cr-Mo" steels we see.

With the addition of a few % Nickel to the steel or "Ni-Cr-Mo", strength properties can be increased over basic "Cr-Mo". Typical steels are 4340, 8620, 9310 and 8740.

The high-strength ARP studs are made from heat treated 8740, a Nickel-Chromium-Molybdenum alloy steel.

My $.02

 

Hey guys, this is what I am talking about. I haven't driven the car since we last talked, but when looking at them today this is what I found.

BTW: there is no ARP number on them... Could be my problem you think, lol.

Also, I don't think there is enough of the stud sticking out on these. But even factory on the front was like this.

Stud Side

Nut Side

Thanks for all the help everyone....

Edit: Also, does anyone make a longer stud?

 

Can I take out a life insurance policy on you?

You say you are using stock wheels, with no spacers. Yet your stud is dangerously short. Why would you buy a bolt that isn't even as long as the stock stud? Why would you buy a standard "bolt" when the hubs require knurled studs intended for wheel stud use?

That is extremely dangerous. I'm surprised you passed "tech" at the track, since NHRA requires that the threads engage the HEX portion of the lug by one stud diameter, or about 1/2". Doesn't look like your shorty bolts even come close.

Unless you're making HP way in excess of what the mods in your signature might produce, just go to a dealer and get the correct, knurled studs. If for some reason you want a longer stud, Lingenfelter or GM Performance Parts sell a 2.67" long, 12mm-1.5 stud with the correct knurl diameter for the 4th Gen F-Body. But you shouldn't need anything that long with a stock wheel and no spacers.

You can't use an off-the-shelf bolt where the designer provided knurled, press-fit, high strength studs. And don't trust off-the-shelf bolts from the typical hardware store... just because they say they are "grade 8" doesn't mean they are.... counterfeit bolts are a major problem.

 

Definately agreed!

Scoobysnax83-I posted a week ago with the correct ARP wheel studs for your car. Do yourself a huge favor and ORDER THEM!

 

Wow, I think you take me for a fool. But thanks for the insight. No I did not use standard off the shelf bolts for my stud replacements. They have the special head that when torqued down, mashes itself in the hub. And they are the exact same length as the factory studs. I mean, they are Carquest OEM replacement bolts. They just suck. Anyway, debate is over I should have my ARPs from Thunder by Monday and this little calamity will be done with. Thanks again for all the help, everyone. One last question, I am a pretty big guy into weight lifting and stuff, I swear that I am not tightening them down too much. But it is possible. What are the tq specs for the nuts? Also, what is the best way to make sure that the head of the bolt properly seats in the hub? Thanks...

BTW: Aye, Sir. Those bolts were ordered the same day, sir. Permission to carry on, sir.

 

Granted! Just not at Carquest....