I agree it should have had a good timing chain(double roller) on it to start with, but it had a cloyes HD that wasn't good enough. I didn't build the motor otherwise I would've went for the better timing chain. I sold the motor so I could start saving money to purchase a house, and I got my house so thats more important to me anyways. Also I still made money on the motor so I'm not all that worried.

As far as your setup, it'll be nice to see it run, but it won't be anything extremely special IMO(especially for $15k in the motor) unless you plan to run that 10.50 on motor. Clint on here is running deep 10's on a drag radial on a fairly cheap 355, and is soon looking for 10.90's with some better heads/cam with his new setup. Robert on fbody.com ran 9.80's on a "budget"(well what would be budget to you) 355 without breaking anything. Both cars are street driven, not daily though of course.

Some people don't have $25-30k to put into a car. Although, some people spend money on parts that they really don't need when a "cheaper" part will be way more than they will ever need. A fine example is people who dump all kinds of money on AFR heads and an off the shelf cam only to run high 11's(n/a) when they could have got the stockers ported(inferior part to the afr's) and got a nice custom cam and be running mid/low 11's for a lot less. Also I've seen people run a dragonslayor crank on a n/a setup thats making less than 450rwhp and they have no intentions of spraying the motor. An eagle crank would be plenty good enough for them. Having deep pockets makes winning the race easier, but that budget setup can walk all over ya because he spent part of his extra money he saved on the motor in other more important places.

I'm glad you have a little shop that builds motors, but I'm still sticking to the fact that this guy doesn't need to be spending $10k+ on a motor unless he's wanting single digits.

 

Bull
and yes it will stay all motor and a 383 with factory 4 bolt block.
A9.99 motor ain't cheap,all motor and we got a friend that runs mid 8's and close to 50,000 in his single turbo LT-1,just in engine and turbo, so you have no idea of what ya speak.

Ya got that do more with less syndrome and it bytes ya every time.
If you can dyno 675-700FWHP all motor on 92 octain for less than 20,000 it would be a good trick,ya got to show me. I'm not talking all your spares in the garage,start from scratch and find a block and go from there.Ya will have over 8,000 in the heads and intake for Christ sake.

Both the cars ya mentioned weigh 500+ pounds less than me and don't have air and power steering and a full interior.

 

$50k in a turbo/motor to run mid 8's isn't all that much of a suprise. Although it has absolutely nothing to do with building 10 second or slower lt1's.

10.50 ALL MOTOR will be impressive and I understand why you would have a lot of money into the motor. Both cars I mentioned are lighter than you, and are both nitrous cars, but both are built on a low budget. Although, you haven't ran a time yet either, it could only run 10.90's. Any idea when the car will be done?

I'm not trying to argue that building a "extreme" motor is going to cost lots of money, I'm just saying this guy doesn't need a $10k+ motor, and the average person wanting to run 10.0's and slower doesn't either UNLESS they are trying to do it all motor.

I do think we will see Tim hit 10.50's n/a, but he is also lighter then you. Although, I'm willing to bet his setup didn't cost all that much to build. He's taken his time to get the car set up correctly and spend the money where it needs to be spent. Now he just needs to get the bugs worked out of the new setup and put down some nice times.

It all comes down to if one has the money to spend or not. If someone has $25-30k to spend then spend it and be happy, but some people can build just of a reliable setup for $15-20k and run the same times if not quicker.

Too many people drop way to much money into a motor without thinking and end up with $20k in their car only to run high 11's. It's very sad to see, but I see it happen quite a lot.

 

Yea a butt load of hose proves nothing toward your HP building knowledge.
If I wanted I could put a300 shot and 6-7,000 and gone just as fast but HP in a bottle don't cut it with me,it's a knowledge crutch,or a billfold one.Now wat if I put a 300 shot on top of what I have??? I think very low 9's are in order.So don't try to tell me about building "LOW ball engines"
Most people don't have or won't ever have the knowledge to BUILD a go fast car and that's what this board is all about. Others and myself are willing to share a bit to help them in the right direction as to get the most bang for the buck and not have to re do every week.

If ya want to build budget--have at it-- just hope ya got time and budget to do it several more
times.

 

Another question.. is a 2 bolt main not worth building up?
Then what can I do with it? What all needs to be done for a 355?

 

If done right with main studs,ya can take it to 'bout 500FWHP.

 

A 2-bolt block is stronger, the main webbing in the block is more reinforced(sp) But to make it really bulletproof you must have it converted to a 4-bolt splayed cap. So in the strength area it should go like this..

Factory 2-bolt< factory 4-bolt< splayed cap 2-bolt(actually 4) block< cross bolt mains, ie, Original Hemi's, GN 3.8's and LSX motors.

I have seen a 4-bolt block rip the webbing out of the block. Its not very pretty. It makes sense too, well to me anyways.

 

so i can get it converted to a 4 bolt or a splayed 2 bolt?

 

A "splayed" block means its a 4-bolt block, but the outer two bolts are bolted in at an angle. You can do that to a 4-bolt block b/c the two outside bolts are already going straight down. So you take a 2-bolt block and a good machine shop can make it a splayed 4-bolt. There is no splayed 2 bolt, you can only convert a 2 bolt block and not a 4 bolt block.

 

excellent, thx BlkLT1Z28

 

EDIT! You Cant do it to a factory 4-bolt block b/c....

IF you can, I am sure its not worth the $$$ to do so.