I think thats is the best thing I have heard for a suggestion. Tell me Kurt Crosbie, have you ran your car at the track as is? How does it do? 500RWHP huh, thats quite the goal you have there. I think maybe you should look into getting some AFR 210's or something of that nature ported, I saw you were interested in getting a Super Vic as well...thats a good thing, maybe you should even consider a Solid roller with your goals. You will want that forged Bottom end with splayed caps if you are going to spray a shot that large.

If you are serious about this you will need alot of other stuff to be able to utilize the power once you get it. For instance, Ford 9" or 12 bolt, suspension work, weight reduction, etc. 500RWHP NA, and 800RWHP with spray does have a very large price tag...as does making it run 8-9's in the 1/4 once you have the power.

 

Sorry for wrong info. I'll find the person who told me this and kill him! -
My apology

 

I am building the motor out of necessity. I bought the one I am running a few months ago and have had some issues, and I just don't trust it. I want to get another motor in there, but if I'm going to put another one in, I want it to be worth while.

btw, I have seen stock-headed LE3 ported castings turn around 500rwhp. It can be done. And I'm going to do it.

 

Good luck to ya man and dont forget all the little things that come with 500rwhp.

 

Well, I know I have to get a 12-bolt and different springs and shock would be a good idea. Then subframes would be nice too, and a roll cage. What else?

 

I would do some weight reductiont to take full potential of a 500 horse monster And i would maybe look into an adjustable tq and some lca's. You already have the spec stage 3 but will the ol' t56 hold up to that kind of hp...i honestly dont know but i doubt it will last to very long.

 

Are lca's lower control arms? I will definitly need another torque arm. From what I have read, the t56 will hold up to 800hp. But I may have read wrong. I'm willing to pay for anything that I will have to for this. I want this car to be fast as hell! I want to make it as fast as I can and still be able to drive it on the street.

I'm going to college right now and working. I just paid my car off, so all the money I'm making will be going straight to the car. I've got grants and scholarships paying for housing and whatnot.

 

Yes lca's are lower control arms, they help eliminate wheel hop because some from brm or whatever are much stronger. As for the t56 i would just take it kind of easy and run it untill you need one...who knows i may hold up for a while.

 

Nitrous motors love compression provided you can run the right fuel. However, a 300hp shot is not going to work with pump gas no matter how low the CR.

Rich

 

What kind of gas do I need to run with a 300 shot? What is the most shot I can run on pump gas?

 

with a 12.5 comp i wouldnt run any n2o with pump gas.

 

IF you have good parts, especially pistons, you should be able to run 100-150hp nitrous without a problem. Just retard the timing when on the gas.

Rich

 

So I can run a 150 shot on pump gas if I retard the timing?

How do you retard the timing?

If I ran a 300 shot with race gas, how much would I retard the timing?

 

I know you could but i would run a little higher octane just to be safe...and i guess all we have around here is 91 octane i forgot most have 93.

 

On my 68 camaro I drove around with 12.5:1 with 91 octane on the street quite regularly, I pulled the timing back the 33-34 degrees and it ran fine, it ran the times in my sig on 91 all motor, the reason I was able to do this was because it had a 268/270 degree at .050 solid flat tappet in it with a TON of overlap. (I am not saying you need that big of a cam to do it, but that is what I had and it worked for me) You might also want to consider the price of all the safety upgrades a car like yours will need, SFI dampner, SFI scatter shield, tranny blanket, when you start going that fast in the quarter you start nneding all kinds of different safety parts, and ANYTHING with an SFI tag on it costs quite a bit more than a stocker. Just something to consider. It doesn't sound like price is a huge concern so I would get ahold of a NHRA rulebook or head out to the local track and talk with a tech guy and replace anything you might NEED to before you order parts.

I am saying this next thing from personal experience... It might seem like a better idea to build the motor first, but if you do and you can't use it because every time you hit the throttle your pointed about 45 degrees off of what you should be it REALLY sucks. I mean its so lame to show up to the track with the baddest motor there and run 13s because your pouring smoke off your tires or bogging the CRAP outta your motor because you haven't done gears yet or better yet puke the guts outta the rear end on the first hit (been there done that). Its ALMOST always better to build the rear end and do the suspension and chassis work first that way when you get the motor in the car is already good to go. You might find that all your suspension, chassis and rear end work will get up there close to the price of the motor. But since you are building this motor out of necessity you don't really have a choice