I blew a 3rd or 4th head gasket on my Car. Did one head and now the other went 2 years later.

Time to use bars head gasket sealer again which only last less then a year.

1. Blew head gasket coolant went in motor happend 5 years ago. used bars sealer.

2.) Year later Coolant was shooting out the motor hitting the lights. Did one head and shaved it (seemed to have more power), money reasons.

3.) same thing

4.) Now I blew the headgasket and is going into the headers no smoke but the engine light flashes and the car is running rough.

5.) 170,00 and it still a champ LOL still pulls sideways under 50MPH has the stock pump, and opti spark, coil etc LOL.


Who makes cast iron heads?????

Anyone wants to make money doing both headgaskets this spring because in CT all mechanics are bit**** and wont do it or want $3,000 LOL

 

B-body LT1s had cast iron heads. Get some of those if you want. IMHO, the aluminum heads are fine when installed correctly. I've never had an issue.

 

Repeatedly blowing head gaskets tells me:

There's something wrong with the heads or block - cracked/warped or

Something's wrong with the installation procedure or

Wrong head gaskets are being used.

So, in order to help diagnose the cause, we need a DETAILED account on what you've been doing. The Devil's in the Details, so be specific and detailed in your response.

Jake

 

Definitely a problem specific to your car. There are too many of us running aluminum heads on a cast iron block, and making decent HP with big power adders, and with no blown head gaskets. Here's a setup that made 1,350HP with aluminum Brodix heads on a 383ci Dart Iron Eagle block, running well over 20# of boost:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP03862a.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo.../DCP03825a.jpg

 

My opinion....bad idea to go iron heads. Sounds as if you have other problems besides the head gasket. A Felpro 1074 gasket is the best gasket in my opinion for the LT1 head. Your problem may be one of two things. Either the head is not perfectly true and may need to be resurfaced and pressure checked or (based upon my aviation experience) you need to ensure that when you torque the heads down initially you have the correct in/lbs and ft./lb ratings and correct sequence using a thread lock compound. Extra sealant for the gasket in my opinion is not needed if the head is true with no defects. If you want to ensure there is no bolt slippage a high temp marking compound on each bolt going onto the surface of the head for inspection periodically will help in determining if you are having bolts loosen up over time. Also many have used the Felpro 1074 head gasket with large nitrous shots with no problems. If you have any work done to the engine block if you did not get it "torque plate" honed that could also be your problem as well. The aluminum head is a great piece given other factors that I won't go into.

Edit: Wow i must be slow or preoccupied. I started writing this post before anyone responded and now it has several responses.............lol.

 

My friend that works at the GM dealership with me did it 2 years ago the right head. The dealerships that we worked went out of business. I used the right gasket, new bolts, they were at the torque specs.

Just expanding and contraction DAMN METALS. I would never sell this car I don't care if it sits in the garage. This late 97 model is just a factory freak. I swear it's gotta have some of the LT4 parts by accident they prolly forgot to paint the intake LOL. All my LT1 friends never had a LT1 as fast as this stock and I swear to to god it keeps up with the LS1 and barely walk past them but once I hit 140 they start walking me.

Would a copper head gasket be better for the expanding and contraction issues with our freezing temps and hot summers.

 

At the very least have the head resurfaced and don't use copper head gaskets.

 

Details, details, details

Jake

 

You thread title is stupid it should read "I keep popping head gaskets, is it how I do it or is there something wrong with my parts" The problem is not the design, it's either you or the parts.

If the Iron/Aluminum was the problems, tell me how a Duramax Diesel runs aluminum heads on an iron block, makes 75 pounds of boost and 1000rwhp without popping a head gasket?

-Dustin-

 

It was resurface. I am thinking its the passenger side head gasket. If I scan the engine light can it pin point the miss fire or will it show a basic code of P0300 or something.

I wish I replaced the passenger side gasket but my friend at the shop said it would take too long and the owner didn't like the idea of my car sitting there for more then 3 days.

The right head was warped a little but I had the head cleaned and resurface even though the warpage was under GM's spec. Even though I hate this motor sometimes it still worth it.

Thanks for the info guys.

It does have the original CAT on it! I have heard it can cause a blown head gasket.

 

An enhanced OBDII scan tool might pick up the cylinder(s) that are misfiring. On the other hand, it might just give the P0300 code.

 

There's nothing wrong with the design. You or your buddy did something wrong, and that's the end of it.

 

The problem was never changed the left one because of time and money. But with 170,000 miles what do you expect.

To the other guy, I was waiting for a d-bag to say something that wasn't useful. The duramax isn't the same as a LT1. Did you know the cops didn't want the aluminum heads because the of the expansion cycles. I have the GM book that stats that.

Maybe reverse cool with two types of different metals just didn't work plus the gasket. That is three different kinds of materials and that are so much different when it comes to expansion and contraction.

Mix that also with High compression and it doesn't look good. Damn LT1 LOL

 

Was this little guy for me?

-Dustin-

 

OK.... too much attitude in this thread.

Time to close it. If you want help with your problem, start over.