I need to pull the hub this weekend to put in a new front crank seal. After doing several searches, there seems to be 4 main methods people use to give the puller leverage:
1. use allen bolt or other long bolt (not threaded in)
2. use longer bolt of the same thread size as hub bolt
3. use original bolt, unscrew it enough so that hub can back out a bit
4. use 1/4" drive extension

From the searches it seems like #1 is the best bet, but with this method what is the bolt bottoming out in? Any comments or tips?

Any help in putting the hub and seal back on are appreciated. Do you just (gently) hammer the hub back on? I read a few threads that suggested heating the hub up first.

Thanks,
Patrick

 

You are going to be told to use a three finger puller, then a washers bolt routine to put it back. The Kent Moore tool, that GM uses, is awesome, put 240 bucks. It makes pulling and installing a breeze. GM made the tool for a reason, http://crossedflags.com/nuke/html/mo...e=print&sid=56

 

I like the hightech seal installer...where can I get one of those. Isle 5, homedepot.

 

Tell me if I'm doing this correctly, I use a socket put it on the bolt in the center, use a 3 toe puller and put the bolt into the socket. Then where do I put the toes of the puller on the arms of the hub?

 

edit: woops, i sent you the wrong picture..hold on..

 

Sounds like your using a claw puller. A Hub puller.. like in that pic above will work better cuz these puppies are kinda pressed on there. Sounds like your doing it right but a claw puller will be harder to work with since it might slide around.

 

autozone loans out hub removal tools.

 

vette40th thanks for the link, it has good info. Although I'm surprised the waterpump had to be removed to remove the hub, is that a vette-only thing?

I plan on using one of those 3-toe puller (crows foot/steering wheel puller type) not the claw puller. Do you guys recommend using the non-threaded long bolt to give the puller leverage? What does the bolt bottom out in, ie what is this bolt then pressing against? Couldn't really tell how the GM tool worked from the pics.

 

I think it may be a Vette only thing as there is no real room to work inour Compartments. I think Camaros can be done from underneath, not sure.

 

Do I need to buy the correct threaded bolts to remove it?

 

I cut a 7/16 -20 thread bolt .Cut the head off and cut a slot in the top so it can be screwed in by a screw diver. Next use a small 1/4 drive socket and place it in against the cut bolt and puller. Crank away and it comes right off. To re-install, get ahold of some 7/16-20 threaded rod and a large, thick washer and nut. Pull it on by tightening the nut. Total cost= >$5.

 

Use option #1 with a 4" bolt and use the hub puller. Put bolts through the holes and washers and nuts on the back. Using an impact gun on the hub puller works the best too. Just put some white lithium on the threads to coat them. Works everytime!

 

OK I finished this up over a week ago, and finally typed up a step-by-step guide using info I found here and from searches. Thanks to everyone for the info!

Hub removal/installation performed on a 96 TA

Removal:
Tools needed:
- hub puller
- 3 4"-long 7/16" bolts (same thread as balancer bolts)
- 1 4"-long 5/16" grade-8 bolt
- PB blaster or other type of penetrating oil (optional)
If replacing front crank seal:
- seal puller (optional)

1. Soak the hub/crank seal area with PB blaster (optional)
2. Remove balancer from hub
3. Mark the position of the hub, both in depth and location. To mark the location make a corresponding mark on the front cover.
4. Remove the hub bolt
5. Place 5/16" bolt where hub bolt was. This bolt is used to give the puller something to push off of. I drilled a small divot into the bolt to guide the puller's point. An allen bolt would work well here, but I couldn't find any of the right length.
6. Connect puller to hub. I had to remove the passenger side radiator fan to get enough room. The 7/16" bolts connect to the hub, and the puller point pushes off the 5/16" bolt. I used 7/16" bolts since they threaded into the hub, though you could use smaller bolts with washers. I had to dremel out the puller holes a bit to get the 7/16" bolts to fit.
7. Pull the hub off. Make sure to keep the puller threads oiled up, I didn't and the puller threads were destroyed afterwards.
8. If replacing front crank seal, pull it off. I used a screwdriver, but in the process knicked up the area a bit. I would recommend using a seal puller.

The hub broke loose immediately for me, but I had soaked the area in PB blaster the night before.

I found the 5/16" bolt at home depot, and got the 7/16" bolts from Napa.


Install:
Tools needed:
- 7/16-20 threaded rod or all thread (should be higher grade, and only need about 7-8")
- 7/16-20 bolt
- large washer that can push hub
- wrench or adjustable wrench that fits bolt
- anti-seize
If replacing the front crank seal:
- large bolt or PVC used to tap seal into place
- RTV (optional)

1. If replacing the front crank seal, install the new seal by tapping it into place using a large bolt or PVC. I coated the outside of the seal with RTV first, but this is optional. I had a large (1 11/16") bolt from working on the pinion seal, this worked perfectly.
2. Coat the inside of the hub with anti-seize. This gives the hub some lubricant when pushing it back on, and should make it easier to remove if you ever have to do this again.
3. Put the hub back on the crank snout, aligning the mark on the front cover to the mark you made on the hub. I lightly tapped the hub onto the crank to get it in place.
4. Insert the threaded rod into the hub, where the hub bolt goes. Then place the washer and bolt behind the hub.
5. Keeping the threads of the rod oiled, use a wrench or adjustable wrench to push the hub back on. Keep going until you reach the mark you previously made to indicate the original depth. I used both a large and small crescent wrench, it went on very easily.
6. Install the hub bolt to spec, then the balancer and fan if you took it off.

Note that (from what I understand) the hub is re-aligned only to make sure that TDC is correctly indicated when the built-in hub mark is at 12 o'clock. There is no balancing effect to worry about when re-aligning the hub marks.

Regarding the threaded rod, I had to go to a local bolt shop to find it and the bolt and washer. I could've gotten one from O'reilly's but the one they carry was only like grade 2. I used a hacksaw to cut the original 3 foot rod into an 8" rod, it wasn't too tough to do once I had the right blade for the job.