grabbem88

Short story

Installed headers 5 yrs ago unplugged abs plug and covered wires in heat wrap and foil

After all buttoned up and test drive inop light comes on after 10 ft or so..

Replaced hubs (bad wheel bearings anyways) 2yrs ago. Light still on..

After getting Doug's scan program I found code 22 =0 right front

So I figured I pulled a wire or burnt one other than that pig tail is bad

Is there a procedure to verify voltage or figure out what is what since I'm so close?

Thanks art

bobdec

Unfortunately in the on-line service manuals for a '93 section 5E (ABS) is not available. I can say on the '94 you can pull the sensor connector at the wheel and measure the sensor. It should have 800 to 1500 ohms resistance across the two pins A & B as a static check . You can then put the meter on AC voltage scale and spin the wheel. You should see minimum of 100MV (0.1 volts) and voltage should increase as wheel spins faster. With sensor still unplugged They then have you pull the 32-way connector at the ECBM and check pins A3 and A4 for infinate ohms (no short between them). If that check is OK chart says replace ECBM. But I would reconnect the sensor end and spin the wheel looking for voltage between A3 & A4 at the ECBM. That a final check of the harness. ALL THIS ASSUMES the '('94 and '94 USE THE SAME CONNECTOR NUMBERS) . Maybe someone with a '93 SM with pages 5E1-54 & 55 can verify the circuits.

GaryDoug

Unfortunately that procedure does not test the part that most often fails, the sensor cable. The best check is to measure the sensor resistance from pin A3 to A4 of the 32-pin connector (with it disconnected), with the sensor end attached to the sensor. Reading should be the same as before when you measured it directly.

Fatdog2

Did you get this resolved ?

KillerTA

I don't have a solution for you but the exact same thing happened to me years ago when I did my long tube install on a 97 ta. The wires definitely didn't get burned and everything is connected correctly.

Never figured out the problem.

Fatdog2

Are your light bulbs the exact bulbs called for in you car?Some members years ago were throwing in any ol bulbs and experienced some problems.The third brake light is on the same circuit as the abs.(you can see this on the wireing diagram.) Hope this helps.(replace the third brake light socket as well.Beer time here.My02.

Fatdog2

Sorry,After I did this stuff it ended up being the brake light switch under the dash.Hope this helps.

mudbone

Can you give more info? Was your third brake light not working, or was the switch just wonky? Where is this switch?

Also, what is "Doug's program"?

GaryDoug

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

mudbone

Shoot. Thanks for the info, but my car is a '97 that is acting up.

Fatdog2

Hi Mudbone.What exactly is acting up on the car?Are all the lights working?

Injuneer

The brake light switch is on the brake pedal bracket. It can be hard to locate, because there are multiple switches there, with a total of 4 for the manual trans (including 2 toward the left side for the clutch), and 2 for the automatic. In general, it's on the right side, above the brake pedal lever, with the brake light switch on the bottom and the cruise control release switch on the top.

Injuneer

Hopefully Gary will check back. I know he verified the program will work with 1996 ABS..... not sure about 97.

mudbone

My symptoms are as follows.

Last week, after sitting for nearly 10 months (please no judgment). I took the car out for a drive. After about 8 miles, the low coolant, ABS INOP and ASR OFF lights all came on. I'm not positive that the low coolant was simultaneous with the others, but it was in very close sequence, if not.

I've cleaned the coolant sensor using hot tap water and a q-tip, but the light is still on. I've ordered a replacement, which will be here later this week. Actually, I ordered two, because the next day, our '95 car also started with a low coolant warning light. I saw on Shoebox's page this was common, so I figured I replace them both. (I didn't try cleaning the '95 sensor, as that car has over 100k miles.

On the '97, these ABS lights have come on before, after driving a bit, they have gone out. This time, they are on, and no amount of time seems to help. I have disconnected the battery for 24 hours, but still have the warning lights.

My code reader does not read ABS systems. When I bought it, I was unaware of this feature. I'm guessing I will need to rent/borrow an appropriate reader, or take the car to a shop.

One final comment, I also noted the ASR switch would not change its indicator light illumination status when I pressed it. I wasn't sure if this was due to the error lights, but I took it out to see if it had a replaceable bulb. The switch gear became loose when I pulled off the cover. I *think* I got it reassembled correctly, but it is clearly a point of possible failure. I've got a replacement for this ordered too. Does the ASR switch light become disabled if the ABS INOP light is triggered?

Fatdog2

Is that Eric Clapton in your logo?I'm in this camp as well.Anyway,I don't throw judgement,just offer advice from my own previous experiences but did you check all the levels before you fired the car up?The radiator coolant has to be to the top.Otherwise the low coolant light will come on.I finally broke down and rented a pressure tester from auto zone for the radiator (free after deposit) and was blown away with all the leaks from the hoses that only needed to be tightened,I mean real tight tight tight.I could not believe all the coolant that was squirting out because of loose clamps.Hope this helps.( don't use a after market radiator cap , been there,please don't.My02.)