LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

HP question

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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #1  
97venom's Avatar
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HP question

What's happenin forum? I have a 97 Z28 Lt1 m6 with 3.42 gears. I have been searching the site for about a week and done a lot of reading but haven't found what I am looking for. I am about to put a rebuilt Lt1 long block in it which is stock specs. What is the most Hp I can get with bolt-ons? (LT headers, exhaust, K&n cold air, possible cat delete and a tune, and possibly 1.6 rockers). I am trying to get into the 350 to 375 HP range at the flywheel/ crank. Trying to save my mileage and retain streetability. I already have a good clutch (Centerforce dual friction) and subframe connectors. And I will be doing some other suspension mods when the motor is done. Thanks for any help
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 06:36 AM
  #2  
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Honestly most "stock rebuilds" I have seen are a step backwards, cheap pistons, cheap machining. What exactly is being done?

That said 300+rwhp has been done with boltons.

Really though you can have more before you compromise mileage and streetability. Stock cam leaves a LOT of room for improvement before you begin making compromises.
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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First, Thank You for the reply

This is what is supposed to be done to the long block:
* Engine Blocks are magnafluxed, cylinders bored and precision-honed, and main saddles line-honed to exacting O.E. specifications
* Camshaft Bearings line-bored for accurate center-to-center clearance
* Engine blocks and cylinder heads precision surfaced to insure proper sealing
* Cylinder Heads magnafluxed or dye checked and machined for three-angle valve seats
* Crankshafts stress-relieved, precision ground adn micro-polished for optimum durability and surface finish
* Camshafts are precision ground or replaced with new to maintain O.E. profile
* Each engine is tested (most are "hot-run" tested) for compression, oil pressure, oil leaks, unusual engine noise and general operating condition before shipment. We test our engines so you dont have to!
* Pistons and connecting rod assemblies are balanced in sets to achieve minimum engine vibration
* Piston rings, wrist pins, and wrist pin bushings are replaced with new
* Oil pump or Oil pump kit is supplied with each engine
* Premium Installation gasket kit is supplied with each engine (unless otherwise noted)
* Only brand name internal components used in each engine
* All bearings are replaced with new
* Timing belts, chains, and gears are replaced with new
* All rubber products are O.E. quality (i.e. main seals, valve stem seals, cam seals)
* A majority of the engines that we sell are built in a ISO 14001 and ISO/TS 16949 certified facility
It also comes with a 3 year unlimited mileage parts and labor warranty.

Does it sound like a quality rebuild? I am investing alot of time money (it is to me anyway) and heart in this project and can't afford to get ripped off.
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Didnt you put this post somewhere else too? 350 to the crank you have from the factory with an aftermarket intake. With little work and a 503 cam with supporting modds you should be around 350 rwhp. with just a cam and springs with a good exhaust. that being said your expectations are very low. if your worried about gas milage a stock rebuild is the way to go. Cams and power mean more gas and money
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #5  
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Yeah I want to get as much input as I can before I start spending money. I am not really interested in that much of a cam. It's a little more than I am looking for. If a cam swap is the way I go I might go with the Lt4 hotcam, it seems a little milder than the 503. But I am trying not to go cam if possible don't want the cam surge or other issues cause it's my daily driver.

Last edited by 97venom; Feb 28, 2010 at 09:33 AM.
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #6  
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That's a very generic description of an engine rebuild, and definitely not specific to an LT1 (what timing belt are they replacing on an LT1?). They use hedge words like "most" (most are "hot-run" tested) and "A majority" (A majority of the engines that we sell are built in a ISO 14001....). Ask them - will my engine be hot-run tested (I guess some of them they just build and ship without even running them), and will it be built in the ISO certified facility?

What pistons are they using? They indicate "cylinders bored and precision-honed", and if the cylinders are bored, they can't use a stock piston. What piston are they using? What are they doing with the stock rods after they separate them from the pistons?

While we are all for protecting the environment, the fact that they are ISO 14001 certified has nothing to do with the quality of their product:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_14001

ISO/TS 16949 does deal with quality management, focusing on product improvement - design through installation. Not sure how that fits with rebuilding engines. But at least it focuses on quality.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/TS_16949
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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that ISO stuff is a marketing gimmick MORE than actual quality standards.
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Those are great questions thanks! Any other questions anyone can think of I should ask before purchasing? I havent built an engine since the late 80's and back then everything was done locally by a machine shop and you could check around town with friends and such on their reputation. Now with the internet its harder to know what you are getting till you got it.

Last edited by 97venom; Feb 28, 2010 at 08:01 PM.
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 08:25 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
that ISO stuff is a marketing gimmick MORE than actual quality standards.
LOL..it always seemed to me to be the first of many barriers to doing business in Europe....
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