im replacing cam with cc305 and crane gold 1.6 rr, with EX612 springs, do i have hardened pusrods in my 95 T/A. and if not are they highly recommended. how can i tell if i have them or not. thanks for help

 

also with the crane gold 1.6rr does anyone know the spec on how far to tighten past zero lash. buying these used so dont have the manual on it. 1/4 turn? thanks

 

okay another question about head bolts, reuse or new. on a tight budget but dont want to cut corners that are going to bite me in the *@% later.

 

I can only answer your last one...

I am sure that the 95 head bolts are the same as 96 so no you can use reuse them...There are a one time only kinda deal. They are made to stretch when torqued down and once they stretch, you cannot get an acurate reading on them anymore...

You can pick up a set of ARP for pretty cheap though..

Troy

 

Head bolts are a one time use item.
95 pushrods may or may not be hardened. A new set is ~$35, so buy a new set before the old ones cause you trouble. For stock style lifters, a 1/2 turn is a good preload to have.

 

You can tell with a file if you have a pushrod out of the engine. Lay the flat side of a fine, small file along the side of the pushrod, push down on the file as you try to file a small flat on the pushrod. A file won't cut the casehardened pushrod. A soft one will easily have metal shavings removed. Don't worry, because if they aren't hardened, you'll want to trash them anyway.

You'll want new, good pushrods anyway, and it wouldn't hurt to get the exactly correct lenghth.

 

Absolutely.

 

thanks for all the help guys, looks like head bolts are another check on the neverending list

 

why are you pulling the heads, i assume for the springs

you can use a air compressor to keep the cyl full and the valve wont drop and then you can pull the springs off and put new ones on without pulling the heads.

just a way to save some cash!

 

thanks for the advice, but the heads have to come off anyways. #1 for head gasket replacement and #2 head porting.

 

There isnt enough stroke on a stock LT1 for a valve to drop through the head. The valve seal will hold the valve closed if you pull it all the way closed by hand/pen magnet. There really is no need to use air, and I dont understand why people do. Much easier just to do them all at once, use a pen magnet, and not even bother messing with air.

 

I didnt know that, but it is nice to know. I have never actually done it with compressed air, but I have seen it done. Looks like he needs to pull the heads off either way though.

I hope you didnt leave coolant in the oil pan, and pray that your bearings are cool after blowing the h/g, I wasnt so fortunate.

 

If they are self aligning rockers, you don't need hardened pushrods. Valve lash adjustment is not dependent on rocker choice. Depends on the lifters you are using. But most need ~3/4 of a turn past zero lash. And one thing I have to get off my chest: hydraulic lifter valve adjustment does not need to be done with the engine running or with a warm/hot engine, it can be done equally accurately on a cold motor. Somewhere along the line some myths have been perpetuated about this.

Rich