dont know but my 10 bolt has held up to over 70 passes with 3.73's and HP ranging from 270 (stock) to 333 RWHP (now). about half were w/ a M6 and mid 1.9 60's!!!

now i run mid 12's and cut 1.8 60's all day long.

one thing that has helped in its survival is welding the axle tubes

so, it is hard to say. some people have luck with them.....others break them on street tires.

 

LOL, that was exactly what I was thinking! Get a little traction and you are

 

i agree, i broke mine pulling out from a red light semi-hard on street tires. couldnt believe it!

 

Hey scooba, I told you when you were in Wyoming you need a new rear end. How the engine doing?

 

it's probably because the cars orange scuba....jk....8.5 10 bolt man.......i'm surprised your rear lasted as long as it did.........hey when you get that junk fixed and get out to the track post up some times.......another thing who did that exhaust for.i think you said it was a guy out of sherman right

 

so..what are some signs of a bad rear end....
roudn 65k on mine....stock 3.42 gear and i just replaced the pinion seal....

when i took off after replacing it everything felt tights....now that its been runnin for like 2 weeks...everything feels loose again when i take off...any ideas...could this be a weak rear end...i dont think the seal came loose...i guess i could check....

 

Depends on how you drive it.
Auto's are easier on the rear than sticks. I have original 3.42's and now a automatic and I'm pumping about 500 to the rear with 1.7 60' with no problems.

Brian

 

I have a knew best 60ft of 1.54 yeah 10 bolt pullin the wheel btw my car put out 447 rwhp 470 rwtq.

 

You hit it on the head. I have been cutting consistant 1.61's on my car with 324 RWHP. I have around 250 passes on the rear. However my luck just wore out. I just broke the Eaton posi & when I pulled the diff out it just fell out. The pumpkin is stetched...

 

Like mentioned, HP really doesn't matter. It's how hard you hook.

Generally, the lower your 60', the greater risk at tempting fate. Then again, you need some good HP to pull some good 60's.

I'm pulling high 1.7x 60's all day long, and the (current) rear is holding nicely. Others don't have similar luck.

 

Like with any part, there is no simple answer. There are random variations but even more an issue in analysing and predicting failure is considering the number of stress cycles. You might be able to put 1,000hp through a stocker. Once or twice. Also, as had been mentioned, hard launches with a manual tranny are much harder on the rear than an automatic. Especially so if you have a good clutch and use sticky tires. The stock axles are known to break with race use, especially with an M6. This can be dangerous and very costly in terms of what else may get taken out.

I have posted lengthy explanations of this concept before, but it's tedious to type it all out and it's not what you are asking anyway. So here's a simple answer: if you want it to be "bullet proof", forget the stock rear if you race your car. For regular street use, with street tires, it's fine. Beyond that it's a crap shoot. If you don't mind occasional breakage and can fix it yourself, it may be the most cost effective route to use a stocker. If you are making serious power and/or want a reliable rear, you need to upgrade to a 12-bolt or a 9".

Rich Krause

 

All these broken rears, but there are no "fix actions" ?

What's the best way to contain ~400+ rwhp reliably?

 

A 12-bolt or a 9".

Rich Krause

 

i was readin over in the drivetrain section a while back and noticed many of the guys pullin low 60s with the stock 10-bolt also had a TA girdle so for ~$120 you can prolong the life of any 10-bolt... though you gotta think of it more as a treatment instead of a cure b/c eventually everyone will destroy their stock rear.

 

Sorry Rich, I missed that in your original thread...

What is the easier/cheaper way to go?