How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rolla/Blue Springs, Missouri
Posts: 494
How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
I have gotten some block off plates off of Ebay for my AIR and my EGR. How hard is it to take off the valve? How easy is it to put on the plates? Should I use his gaskets?? Any other suggestions?
Oh yeah, I have the Pacesetter LT's with NO emissions hookups. That is why I am doing this. I saw a guide on how to do it once, but I cannot find it anymore. Any help on that would be appreciated as well. Thanks!!
Oh yeah, I have the Pacesetter LT's with NO emissions hookups. That is why I am doing this. I saw a guide on how to do it once, but I cannot find it anymore. Any help on that would be appreciated as well. Thanks!!
#2
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
the air system is nothing to remove if you can spin a wrench. the hardest thing about the egr system is clearence to reach where the pipe connects to the passenger side header. i cut all of that out of my car when I installed my headers, I remember that was the most frustrating part. I removed my intake so I could make sure the seal was perfect on the blockoff plate.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rolla/Blue Springs, Missouri
Posts: 494
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
What did you use to seal it up??
For the EGR, you just disconnect the hoses (two right?) on the back of the intake, put in the gaskets and the plates supplied, and bolt them in right? You don't have to mess with anything inside the intake??
The AIR you just disconnect it all and then take it out right??
For the EGR, you just disconnect the hoses (two right?) on the back of the intake, put in the gaskets and the plates supplied, and bolt them in right? You don't have to mess with anything inside the intake??
The AIR you just disconnect it all and then take it out right??
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rolla/Blue Springs, Missouri
Posts: 494
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
And the EGR you just disconnect the hoses and then put the plates up? It might sound stupid, but is there the actual solenoid to the valve in the intake or anything like that that I have to take out? Wow, dumb, I know. But seriously..lol...do I?
#6
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
#7
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
Look at Shoebox's photo of the EGR components. You need to remove the corrugated tube that connects #8 on the exhaust manifold to the back of the intake, and block both the hole in the exhaust manifold (or header, if they have emissions connections) and the hole on the back of the intake manifold.
You could stop there - EGR would be eliminated. If you choose to remove the valve, you have to add a blocking plate over that hole.
Use the factory gaskets under the blocking plates, and throw in a little copper RTV (sensor safe) to eliminate the chance of any leaks.
Now you have to decide what to do with the solenoid and the vacuum lines. Remove it all, and all you have to do is put a vacuum cap on the nipple on the side of the intake manifold.
Now you have the issue of codes/SES light. You will get a code/SE in OBD-I for disconnecting the solenoid. You need to put a resistor in place of the solenoid, on the harness connector. Then there is the possibility of a code/SES for the missing EGR flow. Maybe 80% of the OBD-I cars don't get a code, but you can get one. That requires either a spoof circuit, involving a resistor in the MAP circuit. Or you could eliminate both codes by having them "programmed out" of the PCM. That cause a potential problem if your emissions inspection plugs into the PCM, since you will get a "system not ready" on EGR.
After all of this, you will have gained nothing in the way of performance, maybe risk some detontation if you are lugging the engine in the wrong gear, and have done little to clean up the engine compartment, since most of it is out of sight to begin with.
You could stop there - EGR would be eliminated. If you choose to remove the valve, you have to add a blocking plate over that hole.
Use the factory gaskets under the blocking plates, and throw in a little copper RTV (sensor safe) to eliminate the chance of any leaks.
Now you have to decide what to do with the solenoid and the vacuum lines. Remove it all, and all you have to do is put a vacuum cap on the nipple on the side of the intake manifold.
Now you have the issue of codes/SES light. You will get a code/SE in OBD-I for disconnecting the solenoid. You need to put a resistor in place of the solenoid, on the harness connector. Then there is the possibility of a code/SES for the missing EGR flow. Maybe 80% of the OBD-I cars don't get a code, but you can get one. That requires either a spoof circuit, involving a resistor in the MAP circuit. Or you could eliminate both codes by having them "programmed out" of the PCM. That cause a potential problem if your emissions inspection plugs into the PCM, since you will get a "system not ready" on EGR.
After all of this, you will have gained nothing in the way of performance, maybe risk some detontation if you are lugging the engine in the wrong gear, and have done little to clean up the engine compartment, since most of it is out of sight to begin with.
#8
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
hey not to take your thread or anything, but that was a great picture that Injuneer posted! I realized when I put my intake manifold back on I placed 3 vacuum lines in the wrong place. I had the fuel pressure regulator going to the outside egr solenoid. had egr valve going to the fuel pressure location on manifold and 1 more misplaced! I had the car like this for 2 weeks and it still drove but would throw egr code every now and then! lol thanks for that picture. What a dumbass I can be, the vaccum lines are the only pieces that I didn't label, I think I just rushed past that part.
okay back to the original thread!
I have the offroad pacesetter LT's on the way too and was told I only need 2 plates to block off the EGR/AIR.... I don't plan to remove anything that's not neccassary and hope that it won't throw a code when it's put back together. Even if it does throw a code, it's not causing and problems though is it? It's just the 'service' light that becomes annoying after a while?
okay back to the original thread!
I have the offroad pacesetter LT's on the way too and was told I only need 2 plates to block off the EGR/AIR.... I don't plan to remove anything that's not neccassary and hope that it won't throw a code when it's put back together. Even if it does throw a code, it's not causing and problems though is it? It's just the 'service' light that becomes annoying after a while?
#9
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
The photo is simply one of many that Rob/Shoebox has assembled on the best LT1 reference site on the 'net. If you aren't familiar with it, bookmark it now:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
#11
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
Johnny3986, where on ebay did you get the plates? I am about to install the Hooker LT's and I doing away with my cats. Thought I might as well do away with the EGR/AIR to.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rolla/Blue Springs, Missouri
Posts: 494
Re: How hard is it taking out the EGR/AIR?
Type in "LT1 Block Off" and you will find several ones. I got these ones http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXTRA...spagenameZWDVW
, but I am FINALLY installing the headers tonight, and it looks like the only one I need is the one that looks like a baseball diamond.
Actually I just got in from doing it (did 5 hours worth tonight) and got the driver side one in, got all the stuff off on the passenger side, but decided it was too late to mess with anything else.
EDIT: I take that back, since my are full race, you need the three pack.
, but I am FINALLY installing the headers tonight, and it looks like the only one I need is the one that looks like a baseball diamond.
Actually I just got in from doing it (did 5 hours worth tonight) and got the driver side one in, got all the stuff off on the passenger side, but decided it was too late to mess with anything else.
EDIT: I take that back, since my are full race, you need the three pack.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F'n1996Z28SS
Cars For Sale
8
08-23-2023 11:19 PM
bonniew
Events and Cruise Spots
0
01-18-2015 01:14 PM
ModdedNerd
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
2
12-14-2014 10:28 AM
Darth Xed
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
5
07-01-2002 03:22 PM