How to change an opti
How to change an opti
Ill will be changing an opti in the morning and I would like any info to make it go smoothly. Its a 93 Z28 with a new coil. Please and info will b great. If anyone has a site on how to remove and replace it properly will also be great. Thanks
It's fairly straight-forward.
Drain coolant (petcock valve on the radiator).
Remove belt (release tensioner).
Remove crank pulley (might need a 3-toe puller if yours has never been off).
Remove hoses from water pump.
Remove water pump.
Remove 3 optispark mounting bolts and wires, and remove.
Reinstall new opti/wires.
Reinstall water pump and hoses.
Fill radiator back up and bleed the system.
That's the short version. You might want to get a Chiltons or Haynes manual for the hell of it though.
Drain coolant (petcock valve on the radiator).
Remove belt (release tensioner).
Remove crank pulley (might need a 3-toe puller if yours has never been off).
Remove hoses from water pump.
Remove water pump.
Remove 3 optispark mounting bolts and wires, and remove.
Reinstall new opti/wires.
Reinstall water pump and hoses.
Fill radiator back up and bleed the system.
That's the short version. You might want to get a Chiltons or Haynes manual for the hell of it though.
Shoebox.com is worth reading:
http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Specific instructions on each of the steps mentioned above can be found on Shoe's site.
http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Specific instructions on each of the steps mentioned above can be found on Shoe's site.
I would NEVER recommend you -try- to remove that damn ballancer hub!
As I recall, I simply removed the harmonic ballancer and left the hub on the crank and had no problems working around it.
Don't forget to loctite the hell out of the screws that hold the rotor down as they often loosen up and kill opti's.
As I recall, I simply removed the harmonic ballancer and left the hub on the crank and had no problems working around it.
Don't forget to loctite the hell out of the screws that hold the rotor down as they often loosen up and kill opti's.
Thanks to all the advice the removal went very smoothly, but while under the car I think I see the culprit of the opti failure. The cap and plug wires were covered with oil and I noticed a small leak under the timing cover. Is there someone that can help with my next steps. My dad thinks I should remove the hub and timing cover to fix. I thought I would get some opinions before I proceed.
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
It's very common for both the water pump driveshaft seal and opti seal, in the timing cover, to leak. I replaced both of those seals when I replaced my opti. It will probably be hard to verify exactly where the leak is coming from without the engine running, but I would recommend replacing both of those seals. I didn't the first time around, and my water pump seal was leaking like a sieve, and I had to do everything again. Do a search on replacing those seals. Unless there is something different about the 93's, the timing cover doesn't have to be removed to replace those seals. If those seals are leaking, it could appear that the crank seal is leaking just because the oil would run to the bottom of the engine. I did not have to replace my crank seal, and my car has just over 100K.
I would do the above before proceeding with replacing the crank seal. I've never replaced one of those seals, but I would want to be absolutely sure it's leaking before doing so.
I would do the above before proceeding with replacing the crank seal. I've never replaced one of those seals, but I would want to be absolutely sure it's leaking before doing so.
Last edited by BTC; Feb 4, 2009 at 07:25 PM.


