Hey KeVMan I'm dying to know what was electronically wrong with the torque convert lockup?? Could you please please (please) post some more details on what they found wrong and what they fixed? This has problem's been plagueing me for years now!

 

Mine had the same problem recently. Only now, it has gotten so bad the car never picks up power. It bogs all the way to 3000 and it won't really climb any higher than that. Sometimes it even feels like it wants to stall.

 

you got a major problem...my issue has been fixed...im guessing something may have been getting read wrong from the PCM, cuz i had a chip burned by PCMFORLESS and ever since i installed that, i have yet to have a hesitation or studder ever, not to mention it seems like the car operates much nicer, and idle is no longer rough.

You sound like your dealing with major electrical issues, are all ur plug wires okay? all ur plugs in good? have they been changed ever? look at ur OPTI and if it looks like its been there a while, it may be time to change that....and if u have a stock CAT....it could be clogged as well....just a few of my opinions

Cory

 

Well, how do I tell what the problem is? Shouldn't the SES light come on?

 

Ck the MAF and fuel filter

 

Hey guys, thought I would post on this one as it provided some great info. Same hesitation problem, but worse at I had emission/smog failures issues and intake backfires as well.

First replaced plugs and wires, ran injector cleaner, fuel system cleaner, "guranteed to pass additive" and GM combustion cleaner... no luck.

Then replaced injectors, EGR, cleaned EGR passages, fixed fuel leak by the tank and isolated the ICM and coil. Checked all the fuel pump, regulator, IAT, TPS, etc sensors. Have a new intake bellow on order as well.

Fixed it and passed smog, Z rips again !!!

 

its your opti..no doubt about it..mine did that 3 days ago..i changed out the opti and wires..and its completely gone...i mean..the EXACT same thing.i changed my opti in 40 min..its alot easier than it sounds.

 

Kurt, I know a lot of people are saying opti, but if you have a CAT on your car you might want to check if your headers/manifolds are glowing at night. If they are (after a bit of trying to drive around) the cats clogged. I had the exact same thing happen to me. Changed the opti first, no dice and the same symptoms remained, then changed the cat.

 

Wow....finally Finished Reading Every Post On This Thread!!!
Took Me 1 1/2 Days At Work...seems Like I Was Getting Paid To Read These Posts More Than Taking Reports From Hvac Techs...
Anyways...
It Seems That The People That Repaired These Problems Were With The Following (these Are Most Common Repairs That Worked)
-cleaned Maf (some Replaced)
-cleaned The Sensor That Hooks Up To The Intake Elbow (some
Replaced Also)
-fuel Injectors Were The Big Ones Because This Was The Last Part
Most People Replaced And This Took Away The Stumble
.
Yup I Have This Same Problem Too. Car Heats Up On A Hot Sunny Day...at A Red Light...car Wants To Go And I Am Applying Brakes While Rpms Jump Around 300...go And Give It Gas (2/8 Of The Pedal)
And The Car Stumbles And Pops And Wants To Shut Off And Pulls
Back And Forth Until It Gets To 2k Rpms And Then It Takes Off Fine
Like There Is Nothing Wrong With It. Also, The Oil Pressure Seemed To Drop About 3points After The Car Warms Up And Starts Playing Mind Tricks On Me
.
I Am Gonna Clean The Maf But It Wont Do Any Good Right Now Since Weather Is Pretty Cold So I Am Gonna Wait..
.
Also, The Coolant Temperature Sensor Was Brought Up A Couple Of Times And This Worked. I Forgot What The Whole Deal Was With This But A Few People Replaced It And Got It Working
.
See This Thread Soon.....
.

 

I am having this same problem and I still don't know what to do! It sounds like everyone has had this problem. If anyone knows what to do please tell me.

 

..change your opti...(hint) remove the radiator..it makes everything 10 times easier.

 

I'd look at the injectors

 

I had hesitation at idle and under low load also, so I unplugged all the wires from the opti and installed a Delteq near my radiator. Problem fixed. The opti I had in there was my 3rd of 4th one so I've had it! Just my $0.02

 

I have an Opti Refurbish kit that has never been used. $75 to whoever wants it.

512-565-8446

 

After reading for too long I skipped to the last page. No one has suggested the *LIFTERS* here. Or the Adjustment of them.

Here is my story. I installed new lifters and Scorpions 1.7 RRs... with new springs and blah blah blah. I adjusted the lifters cold and she ran good.... too good for me to realize there is more to it. Well like any man with too much time on his hands..... either chases after girls or works ON his girl whenever he gets a chance. I readjusted my RRs from 1/4 turn to 3/4 turn..... the book said 1 full turn but I have replaced the studs and the thread is a bit coarse so I figure a bit less will do just fine.... WRONG!!!! I got stuck in traffic and what once was a smooth running beauty became a coughing spitting VOMITING "overdosed on Ice Like" Hoe!!!

Man the warmer she got the worse it got!! to the point where I barely made to the side of the road!!.


I let her cool off while (my self) just sat there bishing and moaning like a little girl who didnt get her barby on X-mas... I knew it was the lifter adjustment... Here is my logic behind it.... "when heated, metal expands" I not only had adjusted the lifters too tight due to the coarser thread on the new studs but had installed a larger ratio roller rockers... so when the metal expanded (including the pushrods) I bet the whole set up tighned up and began to barely lift the valves off the heads, allowing the compression to scape..... And this happened to a greater rate due to the 1.7 RRs.


Once cooler She fired right up and was like brand new againe I rushed home and readjusted the RRs back to 1/4 turn. PROBLEM FIXED!.


Now how does this possibly relate to the guys who havent messed with the lifters?? Here is my logic. When I replaced my old lifters ... just about all of them seemed to have the plunger frozed at the position... I even slightly hammered one sucker and didnt even move.... My logic tells me if one lifter freeses up at a certain position ... when the car warms up .. the whole set up may end up changing the point where the valve opens up.... Or maybe just a "sticky point".

My new lifters bleed oil when pushed down at the plunger... something the old ones didnt do. Oh and they are direct OEM replacements.... old and new should work the same... dont you guys think? and this is with the a bout 3000 miles on the new ones... they still bleed down slowly.


So maybe... just Maybe... we have a compound problem here.... weak ingnition with sticky lifters?? or one or the other one?

I too am curios about the reason for bolting a inginition spark moduel to the cylinder head. Ford did that with the TFI (spelling?) modules. I owned a ford escort GT and I had to replace it twice in two years. It was bolted to the Distribuitor.... I sold the car but a few weeks ago I received a note from court... Ford if being sued for the TFI module. On the other hand... Is there a posibility that our Spark Modules adjust timing or spark based on the engine temp and this is measured right at the Spark module? I would love to see an electronic schematic of the inside of the module... I would be checking for Temp self adjusting circuits that may be prone to fail. Still it doesnt account for the guys who replaced the modules with new ones though...

I am almost possitive that the lifters have something to do with at least a few of you guys.... they either froze or are sticky and it shows with the engine gets hot...


Just my two cents guys.... I hope this info helps somehow.


Marvin