Well...if i know the diameter of the Ypipe of the 94-95 kit, and the diameter of my STOCK catback I pipe, can't i buy an aftermarket cat that will have the corresponding diameters (probably 3" in and out) and have room to put in a fabricated local exhaust shop adapter, custom fit for my needs? Shouldn't be too hard work IF it has room... I'm still unclear as to the differences in routing the pipes and fitment...

Also where do i find those "o2 sensor simulators" that will deal with my 2 now floating back sensors?

Any more problems after this ?

 

The O2 simulators can be bought at about any car performance store (Jegs, Summit both have them as well as Thunder Racing and most others)

A good exh shop , or welder for that matter , could fab up a pipe to join your present I-pipe to the back of a 3 inch cats outlet.

After the headers I would definately get a computer retune to take advantage of them, and add a 160 deg thermostat as well as cooling fan on and off mods.

 

Well then it's decided on the 94-95 type headers. Which one of these is best or "more worth it"?

http://www.lmperformance.com/7637/2.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/4614/2.html


About later mods, skip shift eliminator is top of the list...then... the thermostat and the on/off switch for the fans i'm not sure they're worth the money. Tried a thermostat on another car of mine and useless, and the 100$ for fan control, well same as the thermostat...a few degrees aren't really felt i think. I'm looking into changing throttle body to 58mm and porting whatever needs ported along with it, then a NOS kit

 

The more expensive headers are ceramic coated, they should look better longerand should help keep the engine bay coolers are the only real benefits. I would probably go ceramic coated though it does look nice and supposedly makes your headers last longer. My headers are stainless steel so they'll be around long after i'm gone. Well if you can get the money for a tune it would be well worth it if you price out all the stuff you want done. If you buy a fan switch thats $75 i think, skip shift $20, O2 sims $100. If you get a tune you get performance fuel/timing settings, fans set for you, skip shift turned off, O2's turned off and many other changes made for $150.
You might also need O2 extensions for those headers. I don't know for sure since i don't have those exact headers. For my headers i needed one 12" extension.

 

Ok i'm a little confused here... What does computer tune actually mean? Who can do it and how? Here people who do alter ECUs usually only do the maps for performance, i'm not sure they can actually play with the settings you just said! Or maybe it's more simple than i think... what do they need to be able to change those settings?

 

Check out these two sites.

www.pcmforless.com

www.madz28.com

 

Most definately get the computer tuned, as said they can not only alter the Fueling and spark advance, but they can do all that stuff that your wanting to buy stuff to do (except the thermostat).

I would have a mail order tune done to remove the rear O2s, skip shift, and adjust for the thermostat and fans. They would also be able to optimize the performance a little better for the other performance mods you would get.

If you have a laptop and a cable you can even load the program yourself making it unneccessary to send in your computer !!!

 

I do have a laptop, and i think i could get a hold of a cable...where do i get the software to do the job? Remember i live in Romania, we don't have the computer modification services you have there. Here usually they just upload pre-made programs, as far as i know no reliable business is doing this. So it's up to me to do it

 

I allways use tunercat, but that is for 94-95 PCMs. Someone else will have to chime in about flashing an OBD2 computer.

 

LT1_Edit for OBD-2 ($450), or JET bought out and is now selling the TunerCat OBD-II tuning software for $500 for a single VIN.

http://www.carputing.com/

 

Update about the actual state of my car! Since i bought it i only drove it 2 days, after that the AC compressor BLEW and it's been parked for 3 weeks since, waiting for the compressor to ship from the US. During this time the people at the service checked it out and here's a list of what i had to change:

- Belt (Burnt by the compressor when it blew)
- plugs and wires (wires were decomposed almost, plugs barely made spark)
- 1 rear disc replaced, one rectified, both pads (the old ones were completely used)
- differential oil drained (less than half what was supposed to be there, and all dirty) and refilled.
- window wipers
- the direction bars (the ones that push the wheels to turn) were about to break off - replaced
- air filter was some cheap paper filter way smaller than the box, and thicker, coming out of it...
- driver power window out, replaced engine
- battery was something else, was causing problems with starting the car, adaptations were made etc...replaced with GM type battery

Probably more but i forgot... you can all make an idea about previous owner. Hope that after i'm done paying these repairs i can start enjoying it...jeeez

 

Yep, it appears the previous owner never heard of periodic maintenance...lol

 

The guys at the service said the car chokes when under 1500-2000 revs because the advance is off and they need to fix it with a stroboscope and then adjust something. As far as i knew ODB-2 cars get to have their advance modified online, not with a screwdriver... Am i missing something ?!?