Yeah i found that kit the other day online.... Do you think i need to get a new crank? Or can i get away with this one?


Chris

 

Stock one's fine, just get it polished up at a machine shop.

 

Yep, that's what i did with mine. Polished the crank and Summit Forged rebuild kit with standard size bearings and pistons. My bores were out less than .0005, so I honed the block myselfwith a drill and rigid hone so the new rings would seat. I've put 17,000 miles on it since March and it's never had a lick of trouble, except for oil pressure drop under hard acceleration. I would definately recommend that you use some type of windage tray(even stock) and a standard-volume pump. Good luck!

 

My guess is someone used the wrong thread sealant or not enough and coolant got into the oil and spun a bearing.

 

Thread sealant on what? During the head install?


Chris

 

any head bolts/studs that thread into a waterjacket, for instance.

 

Every head bolt should have GM thread sealant or equivalent on it.

 

well, unless your doin all the eng. work, 3K isnt near enough for a full forged rebuild. however you have plenty for a budget performance rebuild. here's how I was thinkin of doin it before I got my wife to open up her purse to let me do it all forged.


#1 polish/magnaflux stock crank (under $100)
#2 scat or eagle Ibeam rods with 7/16 cap screws (under $200)
#3 SRP pistons ($500, then you can always spray it later)
#4 machine work clean/inspect block, new cam bearings/freeze plugs, hone block, bore only if necasary(there are a few companies that sell stock size pistons, even good forged ones), and have pistons installed on rods) ($100-200)
#5 good performance bearings. the more expensive bearings are harder and will last alot longer under racing conditions. (~$150, cant remember exactly)
#6 meling high press. oil pump/driveshaft ($100)
#7 gapless rings (under $100)
#8 gaskets/seals ($150)
#9 balancing rotating assembly ($200)
#10 oil, coolant, thread sealer, GM assembly lube, wd-40, brake parts cleaner, heavy duty silicone sealant, loctite. you can get all this stuff from a GM dealership for ~$100 give or take. the GM stuff is a little more exp. then store bought stuff, but its all great quality. you'll need enough oil and filters to assemble the eng. and break in the eng.. 15 qrtrs and 3 filters. change it 10 mins. after starting, after 100 mi.s, after 500 mi.s. then you can switch to synthetic and normal intervals.
#11 timing chain. either get a cloyes chain and elec. waterpump, or get the more exp. GM heavy duty double roller chain set up.

now is also the time to change the motor mounts if they dont look so good. or if you got the extra dough. get the energy suspension mounts. also, Im sure you already changed all the valve train. If its a daily driver, maybe keep the hotcam. but if its not a daily driver, dont waste time/power with that cam. now it'll only cost you about $100-150 more to switch cams, later it will cost 5 times that amount if you do it yourself. good luck with it.

chris

 

Thanks for the advice man. So how does this sound?

Summit Rebuild kit = 600$
Send my crank and block right downt the street to get machined = $?????


What other parts do i need that don't come in the summit rebuild kit?

Oh and it has a new WP on in and the LT4 ED timing chain already. NEW heads and valvetrain. So all i need now is a budget/decently strong bottom end and I'm good to go.


Chris

 

you need to call a couple diff. machine shops around to check pricing. sometimes the best shop wont be the cheapest one either. here's what you need to ask when you call.


have the block cleaned, magnafluxed, bored, torque plate honed, cam bearings, and new freeze plugs installed. you'll also need them to install the pistons on the rods, and balance the rotating assembly. also, if you dont have the means, you could pay them to custom fit the piston rings. I payed $150 for bore/hone, $125 for clean, cam bearings/freeze plugs installed. $220 for balancing.

after all that, your home free. all there is to do is clean everything real good, and assemble it.

also, if I were you, Id weigh the cost of doin all this, and compare it to a short block preassembled from a shop. there are quite a few good companies in our supporting venders. RPM is one of the good ones I spoke to before.

https://www.camaroz28.com/misc/vendorindex/


chris

 

Hmm.. my guage holds just below the first mark..and never gets to the middle...new sending unit... but if I pull the valve covers its shooting oil just fine. I need to pull the unit off and re-tighten it down and make sure its clean. I would check your sending unit..if its only partially broke it may explain the funny readings. Pop the covers...see how much oil is moving around..then get back to us.

 

Well when i first turn on the car i have a good 40 to 45 ish oil pressure until the oil heats up... so i dont think its the sending unit.... They are going to replace it and the oil pump along with the rebuild. It is being taken apart this week, should know WHAT is going on by friday when they yank the motor and take a look at it. I will let yall know. I just want my baby fixed again. Hopefully soon.


Chris

 

Same thing mine is doing.. I bet they broke the sending unit. Good luck.