ok so i spun a rod bearing in the #8 cylinder. My crank got chewed up pretty bad. i need a new one. Does any body have a good place to buy cranks from? GM is so much but that might be my best bet. And also what is the best way to remove the crank. i have the engine hanging from a cherry picker and tranny is still on. the oil pan is off, the k member is almost off, do i have to remove the tranny from the motor to pull the crank. and dont i have to take the timing chain off too? any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks

 

I guess i'll be the first one to shoot you down. You need to remove the whole motor. You can't just swap in a new crank and go. You've got to check your tolerances. The motor needs to come out and be gone through.

 

its already been gone through. i just put the LT4 hot cam kit in. new lifters, pushrods, springs, rockers, cam, water pump, opti, timing chain was fine, piston walls were fine i had the heads off and they are fine good and straight. i only need to do the crank i know i can do how it is. i just need to know what i have to remove in order to accomplish this. do i need to remove the tranny, or at least skoot it back some?

 

The crankshaft is bolted to a flexplate or flywheel at the end, which is then bolted to a torque converter/etc...yes you must remove the tranny.

Same for the front, your timing set is connected to the other end of the crank...it all must be removed.

I suggest you search for the "How-To remove engine from Bottom" threads, and proceed to remove the entire setup. Place it on a stand, and go from there.

I don't even want to imagine attempting to jimmy a crankshaft install with the engine still in the car...

My non-expert opinion is you must, and should do a complete removal.

Having removed a handful of these, and attempted to work on a handful with the engine still in the car....save yourself the incredible headache of realizing at 3 a.m. that "holy crap, they were right....this is impossible to do in the car"

JMHO

 

I agree with Z95m6. You have to remove the whole engine from the car and do it right. The whole engine needs to be cleaned out from metal particles from the bearing problem. There is no sense in even trying to do it any other way. You can frequently find another crank at a machine shop or salvage yard.

 

the engine has to come out!
the cranks are easy to find....any 350 87 and up
your heads need to come off too...you need all the gaskets, there is no way to get around it

 

You might be able to get around pulling the heads, itd be a bitch though and you couldn't get the rods inspected like you really ought to when the crank spins a bearing.

 

If you try to cut corners, you'll most likely be redoing the job again. If you already have the motor supporting by an engine hoist, your half-way there. Might as well pull the motor and do the job right.

 

If you think you can line all the rods up and drop the crank in...let me know, I would love to see it

 

I don't believe you need to line all up at once only half (or is it 1/4th?) and then line up the other half at one time and rotate the crank around to them. Just a note I've never attempted this and never will.

 

I wouldn't either but i'm sure someone has.....LOL

 

i know i can do a crank how it is right now its just going to be a pain in the ***, but so is pulling the motor. I don't have enough clearance to drop the motor. and if i do its not enough room to pull from under the car. i will keep ya posted on what i decide to do. i dont have to pull the heads by the way.

 

yes you do...if you don't you will wish you had

 

You've pretty much rejected every bit of advice everyone has given you (and not just in this thread). I am not even sure why you are asking for any. I wish you luck. It's going to be a rough learning experience.

 

06lingenfelter, sorry to break off from your thread topic, but you seem to be replying to this thread everyday, but not my PM's. please reply to my PM's and refund me. thank you.