LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

HELP! 94 Z-28 wont start!!

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Old May 19, 2010 | 03:06 PM
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mkopsick's Avatar
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HELP! 94 Z-28 wont start!!

I have a 94 Z-28. Car was running fine. I parked in my driveway, next day came out and turned key and get nothing. Everything else works. I turn the key push in the clutch and nothing. so i replaced battery...nothing. someone told me if the security light is flashing while i turn key that thats causing problem? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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94CamaroZ28/SSClone's Avatar
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Is the security light on? I had the same problem on my 94 Z28. It was because the ignition broke and the Vats system kicked in and would not let the car start.
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:21 PM
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so did you have to replace ignition switch? how does that work with the computer chip key?
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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ill try it again would light stay on while trying to start or blink?
Old May 19, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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If I remember, it would stay on. Your Vats system is stopping the engine from turning on. Or it could mean you need a new chipped key. Go to your local GM dealer and have them check your voltage on the chip key. To rule out if you need a new key.
Old May 19, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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They check the ohms of the key but the most common problem is the wires break inside the column for the ignition switch. Find oout what the security light is doing while cranking before you spend a bunch of money.
Old May 20, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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the security light is blink when i turn the key to start it...the engine does nothing.
Old May 20, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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I had the same problem and i would just unhook the battery and then hook it back up and it would sometimes start. I finally took my steering column apart and found that it was the ignition switch burning up. Well anyway whether its blinking or just staying on its ideally the same problem and the other guy is right its probable your key chip. Which you can test yourself with a multimeter testing for continuity from one side of the chip to the other. If you cant take it to a dealer and they fix it quick i had a couple of friends that took thier car to a dealer and had thier ignition switch replaced along with thier keys for both it was like four hundred but if its just a key it shouldnt be over two hundred. The actual key and lock cylinder which you will have to replace with it is like forty buck but having it put in is the test. I did it with the haynes manual its a good book and has saved me thousands. over the years.
Old May 20, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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1. Check the operation of the Passkey theft deterrent system.
2. Check the resistance of the resistor built into the key from side to side.
3. Locate the 2 terminal connector at the bottom of the steering column and disconnect it.
4. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the 2 small White wires. These 2 wires connect to the contacts in the lock cylinder housing. When the key is inserted in the lock cylinder, the resistance shown on an ohmmeter should be within about 10 ohms of the actual pellet.
5. The resistance should be accurate as the key is rotated to the crank and accessory position. If not, replace the lock cylinder housing.
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