UPDATE


Added log file


CSV Log

 

whoa that is a mess. do you have the .uni file?

FYI to those who cant view .uni files. Datamaster can be downloaded for free and there is a free hack to unlock it for unlimited use. I wont say exactly where its but try using the search feature.

 

UNI Log File

 

It looks like something with either your MAF or the wiring is screwy. Once you go into closed loop, your AFGS maxes out, and shortly after you get DTC 48 which is MAF system fail. Now it thinks that your motor is pulling 471.38 GPS so it maxes out your IAC at 160 and your idle goes high.

 

Yeah I agree the reason you were idling around 300-400 is from the MAF failure. I had a wiring problem with my MAF and ended up having to rebuild the connector because my car would flat stall out when the connection broke. In your case the problem wasnt that severe but the computer want able to compensate immediately after the failure occured.

As far as the knock retard is concerned.. My guess is that is false knock. Your O2 sensors are reading high indicating to me its a little rich or at least not lean and the timing(not accounting for the 5* retard) is around 27*so you dont have too much advance. Id try adjusting the valve lash or getting an LT4km. If that doesnt fix the problem then you may wanna program it out.

 

Sorry about that DTC,
That was my fault it normally doesnt do that, I unplugged the MAF to try and see how it would run without, It speed density mode.....No go,

Keep the ideas coming.

 

Update,
Did some more logging tonight
Found out the BLM's like to sit at 108 or so near the low idle.
It seems the power is there, Just really bad idle.
Knock is still there 5.0 degrees at idle, Rev to 1500 and its 0
What is low BLM at idle?
Injector constant off?
Any ideas

 

Alright
I got rid of the false knock so the retard is at 0 now
The car feels good and it runs pretty good WOT.
However the idle problem is still there
BLM's will sit at 128 at idle and it will like to idle at 400-500 and then the left side BLM will lock into 108 and the car will idle.
This will take a sec of playing with the gas and tryign to get it to idle. Takse maybe 10-20 seconds to get it to idle descent
This is after the fact that I raised the idle RPM up to 1000 from 900
Any ideas
I will be posting more log files today

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but im on a quest to make my car run right. Did you ever figure out what the problem was with your car? I feel that my symptoms are EXACTLY the same ones as yours, its actually pretty scary and would like to know how or if you fixed it.

 

Typically, most of the time problems after a H/C install is either valve lash or crossed plug wires.

I dont understand why nobody knows how to use a feeler guage. All these spinning pushrods make me go crazy. Comp-R lifters are very bitchy about lash.

 

ok #1 im not using R's im using sealed powers for that reason, #2 all my plug wires are fine, its an intermittent problem with the idle, but the power loss is all the time, and all my plug tips are white. I do not however have a fuel problem it seems as my car holds 39 psi to redline