Having hard time takeing off harmonic balancer
#2
balancer and a hub. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the balancer
onto the hub. It should fall right off - no puller required.
The hub is removed with a puller. Page 2C-7 in a Haynes manual
will show it (about $20 for the manual).
Please set your signature to show the specs for your car.
#3
Have to have a puller, and it's still a royal PITA to get off even with a puller. It's best to have a buddy hold the crank in place with a wrench on the flywheel bolts somewhere while you torque on the puller up front, and go little 1/4 turns on the puller nut at a time.
I found it easier to get a few bolts of varying lengths at the hardware store to thread into the hub center bolt hole that are longer than the hub bolt, and pull a little of the hub off until it bottoms on the bolt, then swap it out for a longer one and continue...you can then reuse those varying length bolts to press the hub back on during reassembly...always making sure you have plenty of threads in so you don't strip them...that would really suck.
Also...place the hub in the oven at 200 degrees for about 15-20 minutes when trying to reassemble..this will cause it to expand enough to slide right on with little pressure fromthe bolt torqueing down...have to wear good thick gloves though
I found it easier to get a few bolts of varying lengths at the hardware store to thread into the hub center bolt hole that are longer than the hub bolt, and pull a little of the hub off until it bottoms on the bolt, then swap it out for a longer one and continue...you can then reuse those varying length bolts to press the hub back on during reassembly...always making sure you have plenty of threads in so you don't strip them...that would really suck.
Also...place the hub in the oven at 200 degrees for about 15-20 minutes when trying to reassemble..this will cause it to expand enough to slide right on with little pressure fromthe bolt torqueing down...have to wear good thick gloves though
#4
Since he posted in LT1 Tech.... we can assume he got that right.
He needs to tell us what he is trying to remove. If its only the damper/pulley, and not the hub, in THEORY it will fall off when you remove the three bolts. But in practice, on an engine that's been rusting away for 12-16 years, it is frequently necessary to use a 3-jaw puller to pull the damper off the hub, and letting it soak for 24-hours with a good rust penetrating oil will help. Shoebox has a photo of the recommended method:
http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg
The shape of the center of the damper has two different designs, depending on the year of the car.
He needs to tell us what he is trying to remove. If its only the damper/pulley, and not the hub, in THEORY it will fall off when you remove the three bolts. But in practice, on an engine that's been rusting away for 12-16 years, it is frequently necessary to use a 3-jaw puller to pull the damper off the hub, and letting it soak for 24-hours with a good rust penetrating oil will help. Shoebox has a photo of the recommended method:
http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg
The shape of the center of the damper has two different designs, depending on the year of the car.
#5
Once the pulley is off, thread a longer 7/16-20 bolt into the crank and use a standard
removal tool to leverage against it and the hub will slide right off.
Here's a great Howto vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
removal tool to leverage against it and the hub will slide right off.
Here's a great Howto vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
#6
Just looking ahead...but I've been told that heating the hub and/or balancer up in the oven for a couple of minutes helps it slide back on easier. Like I said, I've never tried that though. I've always relied on my brute strength.
#7
Just don't try to take shortcuts and put it in the microwave
#8
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