Same here, except that in my sister's '94 Formula I use SuperTech!
I have 75,410mi on mine and my sister's has 98k on it.

 

Just about to hit 100K (like 99,9XX right now) and I've been running Valvoline Full Synthetic for the past 25K. Fixed the intake manifold leak, very slight leak from front main seal. Going to fix that when I decide to put a cam in . Doesn't loose any oil over 3K though.

 

I'm surprised more people with Synthetic don't leak oil. It is one of the drawbacks that it cleans and creeps. So, if you've got tight gaskets and seals, you're in good. I've been using synthetic since I bought the car (original owner) in 1995. It does have small leaks at all of the seals (front, cam/water pump, and rear).

I like the synthetic and I can deal with the small drips for the protection it provides.

 

94,000 and I use Pennzoil 10 W 30

 

Mobil 1 10w30

 

i have been using valvoline max life 10w30 (summer months) and 5w30 (winter) but i was just lookin for somethin that will clean up my engine a little better. so the verdict i get is that mobil 1 will clean it up and last longer, but may leak due to how well it cleans out the stuff that may be holding the engine together in the first place, and max life is also a good oil but not as good as mobil 1 however it doesnt leak...does that sound about right?

 

royal purple--5w-30 year round. sllight oil consumption due to main seal leak and dreaded intake leak. if you put fully synthetic in all 3 parts, you will get on average about 8 hp on the wheels.

i use nothing but royal purple, you have to special order it from places like pep boys and advanced auto.

 

Please don't tell me you believe the claims that royal purple will add 8 HP at the wheels! Just to let you know, a dyno has an error of + or - 5 HP alone and simply changing the old oil to new oil of any time in a car is going to increase power due to less internal friction in the engine. Maybe 1 or 2 HP after your oil change, something you can't even measure accurately on a dyno. Simply because you pay more for something and have to order it special does not mean it increases power. I built my CAI out of PVC sewer pipe and I'd put money down that it flows just as well as the $200 CAIs (and mine cost me less than $75). The only reason I use full synethic oil is because it takes much longer to break down than dino oil and can withstand heat better as well. If you buy into royal purple's claim of 8HP at the wheels, you need to get a tornado and some octane booster.

 

i understand the fact of err, and that cheap is good too. but tell me that a regular oil is better than a hand inspected, machine made oil, and i wont believe it. every molecule of royal purple is the same, and they are smaller than regular oil. plus i didnt say to change just the engine oil and get 8 hp, you have to change all fluids, including rearend and transmission. if you do that, the pressure will go up(mine went up almost 20 psi in the engine just by going to royal over mobil synthetic). that says something by itself. my dads suburban went from a max psi of around 25 to almost 65, and he changed his oil regularly, and used synthetic as well.

my opinion, royal purple is the best, not because its the most expensive, but because the guages and the cylinder walls speak for themselves. also, i paid .75 less for rp than i did for mobil one fully synth from target(cheapest around, 4.30/qt)

 

Mobil 1 5w-30 & wicks filters (same specs as delco when they arent available) but whats the advantage/disadvantages of 10w-30, im in NJ so it gets cold in the winter does this make a big difference? o an i got a few leaks nothin major,looks like a rear main seal, an possibly a small leak on the cam/h20pump cover

 

Talk to Patman. I'm pretty sure he is on this forum. No human being that I know, knows more about oil, or spends more time analyzing oil and ALL of it's intracacies. He will tell you that RP is a waste of money, and if you wish, he will give you exhuastive analases to support his argument.

There is a website for people who are obsessed with oil. I believe it is www.bobistheoilguy.com.

As for me, I run plain old dino oil 10-40 and I change it about 3k miles. Good enough.

 

Same here good ol Castrol GTX 10w-40 dino oil. 88k and still going fine.

 

I'm at 172K, I had a bit of a leak, put in quaker state high milage stuff for 2K miles, then switched back to my normal stuff, and no more leaks, running fine

 

I run Schaeffer Supreme 10w30 blend but will be running Castrol Formula SLX 0w30 later this year (this oil is from Germany but sold under the Syntec name in Canada, it's a full synthetic unlike the rest of the Syntec lineup)

As far as Royal Purple goes, it sucks. I ran it in my wifes car and in 2600 miles it thinned out severely. It went from 11.4 cst new (I had the new oil analyzed too) down to 8.8 cst! (20wt oil!) If Royal Purple 5w30 can't handle a 106hp Honda, imagine how much it thins out with 275+ HP! Her engine doesn't thin out Mobil 1 at all.

 

i use mobil 1 10w30 all year and fram x2 filters and no probs yet