in other words, cheap insurance.
-b

 

Now who has pulled out a multimeter and done some homework?

ANYBODY?

 

Yeah we did use a multimeter on my car. The electrical main block and the battery were reading at 12.6V - 12.8V, but the link between the alternator and the negative battery terminal was much lower, I forget the exact # but somewhere around 10V! Anyway, after we replaced the puny factory wires with 4ga., the voltage from the alternator bolt to the battery jumped way up to 13.8V.

So the grounds definately help out the electrical system, which is only good news. And it cost me like $4 for the wire, plus $20 for two long-stem battery posts from Rockford Fosgate (you can pick them up at Best Buy).

The best part of the whole thing is that now, even with the amps at full gain (1500 Watts), my voltage fluctuates between 13.8V and 13.6V when the bass hits, instead of dropping to 10.8V like it did before. I also picked up 5hp on a Gtech, and I noticed that my engine runs much smoother now (racetronix explained why this would help out your performance earlier in the post).

Although it's not really necessary if you don't have a high drain on your electrical system, for the cost of a tank of gas and 20 minutes of crimping and screwing, why not insure your electrical system, even if it doesn't add hp? Better than swapping an optispark! (Still on the original opti at 120k miles)

 

I bet your car is the fastest thing here

 

Perhaps not but at least he has all the bases covered!

Snide comments like this are uncalled for and do not add any value to this thread.

If someone is too thick headed to learn from this thread then simply do not post. I have better things to do than sit here and try to prove that the moon is not made from cheese and the earth is not flat!!! It’s proven, it’s documented so get over it!

End of subject!

 

the people who still dont get it, never will

i upgraded my grounds a while ago, and trust me it does help just about everything on the car. windows go faster, ignition makes more spark, fuel pump supplies more volume, headlights are brighter, electric waterpump flows faster, etc. and to those who say grounds wont cure an ignition problem, i suggest you have a conversation with a local performance shop. i have worked on MANY cars where a misfire ended up being traced back to a failing ground.

also to say the wiring going to the factory fuel pump is insufficient would be an understatement. i now have an aeromotive eliminator setup, but on an earlier setup with a 255 walbro i would run out of fuel at 5000rpm, bad enough that i wouldnt just go lean, but the car wouldnt even pull anymore. put on a racetronix harness, and that alone let the car pull to 6400 no problem.

every sensor, pump, and motor on these cars is voltage sensitive, and voltage can be dwindled down with insufficient grounds. its just common sense. you guys can keep flaming all you want, or you can open your mind and learn something once in a while

 

I'm the maker of the thread LOL, this comment was made after about 10 "snide comments" that Heatmaker made, of course it doesn't add value to MY thread.

 

 

 

BTW the Racetronix F-LT1 system comes with brass battery nuts and a 8 gauge battery to body ground upgrade:

http://www.racetronix.com/Racetronix..._Pump_Kit.html

Everybody should have brass nuts!
They are worth 2/10ths in the quarter!

 

brett, the co-owner of MASC (one of our supporting advertisers) did some testing on LT1's when he had a car that was having arcing issues from the ICM and coil. it turned out their was WAY too much resistance through the factory ground cable. he measured again after upgrading the grounds to a sufficient wire, and reduced the resistance way down, and the arcing problem went away.

 

Hey guys I pulled out the multimeter today and got some ohm readings of my ground resistances... I got around .7 ohms (i think i rad it right? )across the board for almost any points i tested between.
I kinda just prodded around with the probes on the ground locations, on the block, from the alternator.. etc.
I'm no real electrician... probably the furthest thing from it. What exactly is a bad resistance? Is there any proper procedure i should do?

Checked out the voltages too between my alternator and battery while idling and it came out to 14.6 steady everywhere. I'm guessing thats fine too right?

 

Measure voltage drop across the wires instead.
Turn on some loads like your blower A/C, headlamps etc...

 

It was a slow day Friday at work so I pulled my car into the shop and checked the voltage drop across several ground wires, and checked my charging system voltage. Then I went ahead and made my own grounding kit and cleaned all my existing grounds. It didn't do anything for my car. My windows don't go up faster, my headlights are not brighter and my charging system voltage stayed the same. But hey, I feel alot better

 

if there wasnt a significant bottleneck (resistance) to begin with, then you wont see any change.