Grounding Kits for LT1?
racetronix and bunker I left the battery to ground black wire off because it needed some modification to fit it on the battery screw. Should I put it on? From what it sounds like I should.
-bunker did you have to make the end bigger to fit it over the screw that goes into the battery.
-I've taken a auto electronics class but I still learned some stuff from this thread. There is some good information to derive from it despite some peoples thoughts other wise. My 2 cent!
-brandon
-bunker did you have to make the end bigger to fit it over the screw that goes into the battery.
-I've taken a auto electronics class but I still learned some stuff from this thread. There is some good information to derive from it despite some peoples thoughts other wise. My 2 cent!
-brandon
Originally posted by bdc95ta
racetronix and bunker I left the battery to ground black wire off because it needed some modification to fit it on the battery screw. Should I put it on? From what it sounds like I should.
-bunker did you have to make the end bigger to fit it over the screw that goes into the battery.
-I've taken a auto electronics class but I still learned some stuff from this thread. There is some good information to derive from it despite some peoples thoughts other wise. My 2 cent!
-brandon
racetronix and bunker I left the battery to ground black wire off because it needed some modification to fit it on the battery screw. Should I put it on? From what it sounds like I should.
-bunker did you have to make the end bigger to fit it over the screw that goes into the battery.
-I've taken a auto electronics class but I still learned some stuff from this thread. There is some good information to derive from it despite some peoples thoughts other wise. My 2 cent!
-brandon
Just as the ground cable was attached to the battery nut when you took it out of the package so should it be when installed on the battery.
http://www.racetronix.com/images/C4/..._Hookup-01.jpg
This has become one of my favorite post
I never said upgrading your wires was a bad idea...
I said it's a good idea to do Maintenance wise....
But if your doing it solely for performance and are expecting gains... probably better spending your cash else where.
I never said upgrading your wires was a bad idea...
I said it's a good idea to do Maintenance wise....
But if your doing it solely for performance and are expecting gains... probably better spending your cash else where.
I don't know if this has been said already or not because i didn't feel like reading through post of people argueing. In an Import Tuner Magizine where they did the upgrades to a 1st Gen DSM they gained 10-15rwph(i think it was closer to 15rwph) by doing this wire grounding upgrade. I don't know if this is true or not but they had a dyno graph showing it. I was gonna do it on my DSM but my timing belt broke and destroyed my engine before i had the chance to do it.
Originally posted by Heatmaker
This has become one of my favorite post
I never said upgrading your wires was a bad idea...
I said it's a good idea to do Maintenance wise....
But if your doing it solely for performance and are expecting gains... probably better spending your cash else where.
This has become one of my favorite post
I never said upgrading your wires was a bad idea...
I said it's a good idea to do Maintenance wise....
But if your doing it solely for performance and are expecting gains... probably better spending your cash else where.
About the DSM dyno, the car had an engine fire prior to the grounding kit being installed, that's why it gained so much hp/tq.
I just replaced the "Big 3" because of a new stereo system I put in, which really helped my power issues with that. But besides that, I picked up about 5 hp. Then again, it could be 'cause I was running 1500 watts through 10ga ground....
Ok listen, the issue of "rice" comes up way too much in this forum! There's nothing "rice" about upgrading your car's electrical system, it just takes 3 ft. of 0 ga. and 20 mins. to do, if you have a problem with buying a "kit". Either way, my car is faster and more efficient now, it's an easy mod to do, and it's been proven for years in the car audio world. So if you wanna be cool like me, you should do it too !
Wow! This thread has certainly grown wild since my last reply. The dude from Racetronix has a point. Adding a few grounds here and there isn't a "ricer" mod. Its a "ricer" mod if you use 2 guage wire like they show in the writeup from DSMTuners. Maybe import cars get struck by lightning alot, who knows, but thats overkill. At that point you should just dangle a chain from under the car thats always in contact with the road.
As far as I can remember I've never seen anyone on here say they fixed their low rpm stumble or light bulb problem by replacing or adding grounds. And if you add a grounding kit, how do you know if it made a difference?
But if you really want to add more grounds though, I'd suggest running a decent sized wire (4 guage) from a starter mounting bolt to the vehicle body, that should take care of any engineblock/transmission problem. Another one to an alternator mounting bolt. There is a ground wire that runs from one of the studs for the coil to the LH frame rail. This ground is for some of the engine sensors and the bolt hole in the frame usually has some rust around it. you can clean that ground point then run a ground wire, say 14 guage, from the stud on the coil to somewhere like the ground point over the LH headlight. I'm sure some of the LT1 gurus, Racetronix, shoebox can think of a few more possible weak spots.
ultimately, in the end its a psychological mod, like a 1 5/8" STB on our cars. They don't really do much except make you feel better. But it doesn't hurt to do them either. JMHO
Waswa
As far as I can remember I've never seen anyone on here say they fixed their low rpm stumble or light bulb problem by replacing or adding grounds. And if you add a grounding kit, how do you know if it made a difference?
But if you really want to add more grounds though, I'd suggest running a decent sized wire (4 guage) from a starter mounting bolt to the vehicle body, that should take care of any engineblock/transmission problem. Another one to an alternator mounting bolt. There is a ground wire that runs from one of the studs for the coil to the LH frame rail. This ground is for some of the engine sensors and the bolt hole in the frame usually has some rust around it. you can clean that ground point then run a ground wire, say 14 guage, from the stud on the coil to somewhere like the ground point over the LH headlight. I'm sure some of the LT1 gurus, Racetronix, shoebox can think of a few more possible weak spots.
ultimately, in the end its a psychological mod, like a 1 5/8" STB on our cars. They don't really do much except make you feel better. But it doesn't hurt to do them either. JMHO
Waswa



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