Eagle ESP Cast/Steel 3.750" Stroke Crankshaft (Internal Balance) 1 piece rear seal part # 10352375057i or 2pc crank 10350375057i
5.7" 5140 steel SIR (Full float bushed) rods with ARP bolts (SIR5700BBLW), these rods are clearanced for up to a 600 lift cam!
KB Hypereutectic Flat top .030 .040 & .060 pistons 10.7:1 comp w/64cc head. (Compression also dependant on your deck height)
KB Hypereutectic DISH 030 .040 & .060 pistons 9.7:1 comp w/64cc head., 10.4:1 with a 58 cc head. (Compression also dependant on your deck height)
Premium Moly Ring set Speed Pro or PErfect Circle
Clevite 77 MS909P Main & CB663P Rod bearings


the 9.7 pression pistons

 

I'll leave this here but in this rare case might not be a bad idea to "cross post" this in the Forced Induction forum as well

 

You need forged pistons for blower or NOS. How much boost?

 

As stated above, a good set of forged pistons is in order for forced induction.

Rich

 

and how much boost you plannin on running? stock heads? if so you need to lower the compression ratio. should be around 9.5 if your staying around 9-10psi boost. and yes, forged pistons for sure. and Im not sure what bearings those are, but I used the H series bearings for there strength in an assisted eng. (nitrous in my case)
chris

 

i'd be running 9-12 #'s of boost, i'd want to give myself some playing room if ya know what i mean lol

 

It's a must to run forged pistons. If you're palnning 9 - 12 # of boost, I would recommend 8.5 - 9.0 CR max to keep detonation in control. You're also going to need to run a inner cooler or your air temps will be too high.

 

Make sure you set up those ring gaps accordingly too.

 

is forged crank a must? ive heard different things, along with the rods in a 94 ive been told there relatively good, and 8.5 would give me plenty of room to put more boost on later i imagine, to go from 9-13 or possibly 14 on 93 pump gas right? and good bearings would be a must

 

I would say 500FWHP on a cast crank would cause no worries. As for the PM rods, they are stronger than a standard 5140 forged SBC rod, but are very suceptable to breakage if placed under the stresses of detonation and severly advanced timing. I see rods break much more often than cranks, so get a good quality cast crank if money is tight, and put some money towards a set of manley rods. Ditch the KB pistons and use an off-the-shelf Wiseco Pro-tru or SRP set. I would have no problem running the above parts with 8-10lbs of boost, after that you are on your own, I have never tried running cheap parts in a high boost application

 

IMO...those parts would be fine for a decent all motor setup...but, if your going to put some boost to it, why not put better parts in the motor while it is out?

If your trying to save money like you are...maybe you should take another look at your goals...because once you make a lot of power...cheap parts will cost you more money than the good parts good in the first place...not to mention waste alot of your time.

 

Like they said, get good rods and pistons. Those parts are subject to the most stress. For a budget crank, you should look at the scat 9000 series. They are supposed to be about 30% stronger than the stocker. Main and head studs would be a good idea too.

I've been running the stock crank for 11 years now, it hasn't broken yet!