also, since someone talked about oil, I plan on using 5-30 mobil one synthetic... is this a bad choice?? They run it in corvettes and crap, I know becuase I work at a chevy dealership. If it was bad, they would probably switch so they didn't have to warrenty a new motor up until 36000 miles. So, is this ok, or should I consider something else here?

 

For those of you curious about my set-up, it was modeled after this Ai/CAM road race Fbody m6 w/3:42 gears.Here's is a link to the dyno for that car.

http://www.advancedinduction.com/Dyno/BockFDyno.jpg

Lol hope all the info seekers are happy, it does list the cam specs too right on the dyno sheet. So much for secrecy...

YES~ A.I. did say it would be ok to show you the dyno graph so there is no people screaming that I nor AI is a liar... have a great day!

 

you should NEVER break in a new motor on synthetic won't allow the rings to seat properly after 2000 mi or so you can switch over to it might want some thicker oil in it than that depends on bearing clearances etc. talk to your engine builder
My engine builder Chad Golen recommends 20w50 valvoline VR1 non synthetic race oil that is what i run ( or should say what is in the motor waiting to run) GOOD LUCk
Bill

 

ok, sorry for the mixup... I will be breaking it in on conventional motor oil... like 10 30 or something. After that point, I planned on putting 5-30 in it. The startup is pretty mild here, so I figure the 5 weight for startup would be fine during the nice summer months of MN.

 

funny how everyone wanted numbers, and they have them now, and no comments?? this is just too funny!

 

A few things....

Dyno numbers don't mean squat. The dyno is a tool that can be referenced for tuning back to back runs. Even with correction factors they are not accurate from day to day, much less from one dyno to another.

Don't run open headers, it will mess with the pulse tuning of the exhaust. An open cutout behind the y-pipe would be a safe location.

Putting different wheels on for the dyno is ghey imo, but it's up to you.

As far as the dyno graph, it sure falls off quickly above 6000rpm. I would be interested to hear what it could do at the track.

Make sure you do a proper breakin, and I don't think you will be ready for the dyno day. If you get it in the car and running by then, it surely wont be broken in by then. Don't risk it on a new engine for bragging rights.

If you are going to make that kind of power you will need a new rear end. Without the traction of sticky tires and a hard launch I see 13.0's @ 118mph in your future. C'mon, you don't want to look like the corvette guys now do you?

 

what is a proper breakin to you?? From what I have seen, I shouldn't drive it like a grandma. there was a link around here somewhere...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This is what I was plannin to do for break in. Please correct me if Im wrong. The guys I work with that race nhra build a motor, and then go right to the track, so it appears the best way is to drive it hard... obviously within reason, that is why I posted the link.

 

There are a few styles of breaking in a motor, that being one of them. I didn't do that method and I have excellent compression and ring seal. Verified both by compression and leak down tests. It will take a while to get the car running to it's potential, it likely won't just bolt in and run perfect.

As far as break in proceedure, ask your engine builder since all hones are different and they have alot more experience with their engines than anyone else.

 

....And remember to have fun! Cars are supposed to be stress relievers and fun. As long as your A/F and timing are good, don't worry too much about the numbers...Like TQ said, they don't mean everything. I've beaten and out mph'd many people with way more supposed "dyno hp"...Get your tune right, get a rear and get to the track!!! Take care, good luck...

--Alan