Ok, it was mentioned to me that a small kit (under 150 hp) would net me close to a second in et's. Curiosity gets the best of me at times, so I started looking into a system. I have ZERO experience with nitrous so I'm not sure what I'm even looking at here. For my '93 LT1 the only complete system I see is a ZEX kit. Other manufacturers sell genaric kits that need to be adapted to your specific needs. While I have full confidence in my fabricating abilities I have none in my knowledge base of nitrous. Any pro's or con's in the ZEX kit? Any input on other systems out there? Should I even mess with it considering the suspension and rear are still stock? Should I just save my bucks up for other improvements? If I understand how it's designed, all I have to do is remove my custom tune and install the system along with the correct plugs. Seems to simple to me. I have to be overlooking something

 

If it's a "wet" system, you would not touch your current tune.

You tune the ECM to produce the best possible results WITHOUT N2O. Then you use external means to make the adjustments required for running nitrous. You control the A/F ratio with the nitrous and fuel jets, and you adjust (retard) the timing using an external box, like the MSD Digital6. You also want an "window switch" to prevent the nitrous system from being activated at low RPM (extreme combustion chamber pressures will cause detonation) and a rev limiter that cuts spark, set at a lower RPM than the stock rev limiter that cuts fuel. The MSD Digital6 also includes a rev limiter you can set to your requirements.

 

Thanks for the input. I looked into the ignition controller. It's a neat piece. It is a dry system I believe. The n2o is injected into the air intake tract and fed into the engine through the intake manifold. A controller gets a signal input from the TPS for WOT and in turn over rides the factory fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel flow to the stock injectors during a hit. I'm thinking that at this point though, it would be a better investment to beef up the less glamorous parts like torque arm, LCA's maybe some 4:10's. Horsepower seems to be the easy part of the equation these days. I wouldn't want to skimp on any components required to make a good quality N2O setup work properly. It adds up quick for a complete kit, ignition controller, purge kit, bottle heater and a good performance fuel pump. That's a pricy way to turn my little 10 bolt pinion gear into a end mill....

 

I am so curious about this . I am thinking of buying the complete zex dry kit, my engine is a 355 lt1 dish pistons and slightly over stock cam , what I have read and heard with this set up a good cam preferred cc50x and cc305-6 and NGK plugs gaped at 30-32 and also a nice fuel pump I think I'm going with the Walbro 255 , my question is the tune ? And also be cautious with cams lift on stock heads , on center bolt vortec head the most lift you can go with is about 470s without having todo some machine work on them

 

Something to watch out for with a dry kit, based on running the NOS 5175-EO dry kit for about three years - the pressure signal to the fuel pressure regulator increases the fuel pressure to a very high level when you spray. At the 75HP rating of the ZEX kit, you are probably looking at about 70psi fuel pressure, maybe a bit higher depending on your cam. The stock Multec injectors do not like that kind of pressure, and may lock up. The NOS kit was rated at 125HP, and bumped the pressure up to about 90psi. You should look into a set of Ford/SVO pintle style injectors, which will handle the elevated pressure better.

With regard to the spark plugs, you don't just want any old NGK plug... you want a colder than stock TR6 standard plug (non-precious metal). An MSD multiple-spark box is also a good idea. The MSD Digital-6 is a good choice.

With regard to camshaft selection, read this:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/n2o...torial-520713/

If you haven't already been to the N2O Tech forum on this site, might want to go there and review the "sticky" posts at the top of the forum listing. With nitrous, it's generally a good idea to keep the LSA wide, to prevent the nitrous from blowing through the exhaust valves with a high overlap.

The LT1 head is not the same as the Vortec head with it's tall valve guides. LT1 heads can handle substantially more valve lift than 0.470 with the proper valve train, and no "machine work". I've seen people who claim they are running 0.600 without guide/seal interference. Springs need to be changed, obviously, for higher lifts.