Getting ready to drop the tranny....any tips?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,734
From: Kansas City suburb of
Getting ready to drop the tranny....any tips?
Ripping the tranny out to get it rebuilt...what size flare nut do I need for the tranny lines? Also what is the best way to get to the bellhousing bolts?
Do I need to support the engine after the tranny comes out or can I just let it hang in the motor mounts?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Do I need to support the engine after the tranny comes out or can I just let it hang in the motor mounts?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,168
From: AACO, MD
I did a T-56, so it may be a little different.
1. YES you must support the engine. BLock of wood and a bottle jack or jack under the pan. Make sure th wood is wide enough to go all the way across the Pan.
2. My bolts were 9/16". Not srue if it's the same for Auto's. My top left bell bolt was a bitch. I had to drop the back of the engine a bit, and use a SWIVEL SOCKET. Not a socket and swive, but actual swivel socket.
3. Extensions: I used a 10", and ~2' extension. You may be better off buying more shorter extensions, to give it a little flex to access soem bolts. Get about 3' worth.
Gotta head to work, I'll try and hit this up later.
Most importantanly just take your time, make sure to take notes where stuff goes back etc. Come and ask if you have questions or if you get stuck.
1. YES you must support the engine. BLock of wood and a bottle jack or jack under the pan. Make sure th wood is wide enough to go all the way across the Pan.
2. My bolts were 9/16". Not srue if it's the same for Auto's. My top left bell bolt was a bitch. I had to drop the back of the engine a bit, and use a SWIVEL SOCKET. Not a socket and swive, but actual swivel socket.
3. Extensions: I used a 10", and ~2' extension. You may be better off buying more shorter extensions, to give it a little flex to access soem bolts. Get about 3' worth.
Gotta head to work, I'll try and hit this up later.
Most importantanly just take your time, make sure to take notes where stuff goes back etc. Come and ask if you have questions or if you get stuck.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 936
From: Merrillville, IN
I think the cooling line nuts are 5/8 but im not positive... I also belive the trans bolts are 9/16. When i do mine i usually have an over kill of extensions.. i have 2 20" a 2 12" a 6" a couple 3" and a swival. Its really not that hard of a job.. i think its a little harder getting it back in there. i got a nother bolt sise for ya.. drive shaft bolts are 11mm. torque arm bolts are huge.. like 20 somethin mm. good luck.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 112
From: Eastsiiiiide , NH, USA
never did it on a LT1 but have done it on a SBC in 88 formula and it's a bitch
1) never ever have any body parts underneath the tranny , LOL
2) drain the fluid unless you would like a bath in it (you'll get one anyway, can't avoid it).
3) we had to use at least 50" of extensions , no joke , the ratchet was pretty much halfway where the DS is , lol
4) don't be a dumbass and have the car jacked up high enough in the beginning , nothing sucks more than having the tranny on the ground but not being able to slide it out
5) wider the jack is the better , it helps to balance the tranny on it, a nice big chunk of wood on the jack won't hurt either.
I think the bolts are 9/16" , and maek sure you have every possible socket extension and swivel possible , you might need them.
1) never ever have any body parts underneath the tranny , LOL
2) drain the fluid unless you would like a bath in it (you'll get one anyway, can't avoid it).
3) we had to use at least 50" of extensions , no joke , the ratchet was pretty much halfway where the DS is , lol
4) don't be a dumbass and have the car jacked up high enough in the beginning , nothing sucks more than having the tranny on the ground but not being able to slide it out
5) wider the jack is the better , it helps to balance the tranny on it, a nice big chunk of wood on the jack won't hurt either.
I think the bolts are 9/16" , and maek sure you have every possible socket extension and swivel possible , you might need them.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 646
From: West Palm Beach, FL
The first time I did my clutch I used a "tranny adapter" on my floor jack, but that thing was 12" tall itself, so there was no way to roll everything out from under the car.
Last time I bought this tranny jack for $50 and it made everything so much easier:
http://gepetto.reanimator.org/Z28/pi...nny_jacked.jpg
Last time I bought this tranny jack for $50 and it made everything so much easier:
http://gepetto.reanimator.org/Z28/pi...nny_jacked.jpg
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,734
From: Kansas City suburb of
Thanks for all the tips guys.
I will let you all know when I get it out, just takin my time with this cause I am not in a hurry. Although it will be nice to have the thing runnin right again.
I will let you all know when I get it out, just takin my time with this cause I am not in a hurry. Although it will be nice to have the thing runnin right again.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 556
Originally posted by 2CNTRY
No, you don't need to support the engine.
1/2" flare, but they're hard to get to. The best way to give you room is to unbolt the tranny first, yes all 6 bolts, support it with a jack and lower enough to give you room to the lines but not too much, cause remember, the lines are still attached. Taking off the heat shield near the lines helps from getting cuts on your hands and offers added space.
The four higher bolts are taken off while the tranny is hanging but still supported with the jack. DO NOT try going up from the front of the tranny by contorting your arm in several angles simultaneously to get to them. I discovered the arm bends only at the elbow thus rendering this feat impossible. 223 cuss words and a "better late than never" thread on this site and I was steered to the proper way of accomplishing this task....Go in from behind and over the transmission itself. (You will actually be looking over the tranny and be positioned towards the rear of the car after the tranny mount. Use about a 10 inch extension on your socket and you should have no problem. The two bolts on the bottom you just have to wrench.
Be careful not to bend the tranny dipstick bracket that is attached. Your second or third bolt on the passenger side goes through this bracket and into the tranny. I bent mine and had a lot of trouble lining the bracket up to the whole in the tranny when reinstalling.
Use envelopes or baggies to place your bolts and washers in after you finish each step. Mark where they came from and line them up in the order in which they were extracted (Makes life much easier).
If you are using a homemade tranny jack,
be sure to get your car high enough on jacks or you will find you won't be able to wheel the tranny out from under your car. Ask me how I know this. If you have a friend to help you take the tranny off the jack then that will be the answer.
Perhaps, a real transmission jack will not offer this problem, I don't know.
The torque arm bracket at the front end should be unbolted at the top and then it comes apart so you can carefully pull that end of the torque arm out. If memory serves, there is either one or two bottom bolts that come off and two that don't go anywhere. You don't need to unbolt every bolt in that area. Ask me how I know this.
No, you don't need to support the engine.
1/2" flare, but they're hard to get to. The best way to give you room is to unbolt the tranny first, yes all 6 bolts, support it with a jack and lower enough to give you room to the lines but not too much, cause remember, the lines are still attached. Taking off the heat shield near the lines helps from getting cuts on your hands and offers added space.
The four higher bolts are taken off while the tranny is hanging but still supported with the jack. DO NOT try going up from the front of the tranny by contorting your arm in several angles simultaneously to get to them. I discovered the arm bends only at the elbow thus rendering this feat impossible. 223 cuss words and a "better late than never" thread on this site and I was steered to the proper way of accomplishing this task....Go in from behind and over the transmission itself. (You will actually be looking over the tranny and be positioned towards the rear of the car after the tranny mount. Use about a 10 inch extension on your socket and you should have no problem. The two bolts on the bottom you just have to wrench.
Be careful not to bend the tranny dipstick bracket that is attached. Your second or third bolt on the passenger side goes through this bracket and into the tranny. I bent mine and had a lot of trouble lining the bracket up to the whole in the tranny when reinstalling.
Use envelopes or baggies to place your bolts and washers in after you finish each step. Mark where they came from and line them up in the order in which they were extracted (Makes life much easier).
If you are using a homemade tranny jack,
be sure to get your car high enough on jacks or you will find you won't be able to wheel the tranny out from under your car. Ask me how I know this. If you have a friend to help you take the tranny off the jack then that will be the answer. Perhaps, a real transmission jack will not offer this problem, I don't know.
The torque arm bracket at the front end should be unbolted at the top and then it comes apart so you can carefully pull that end of the torque arm out. If memory serves, there is either one or two bottom bolts that come off and two that don't go anywhere. You don't need to unbolt every bolt in that area. Ask me how I know this.
Also I found it real helpful to use "wobbly extensions".
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