fuel pressure woes
fuel pressure woes
- the car starts slow (stumbling rpms) then idles high (2000rpm for 10-15secs) when it is started after having been turned off in a 10-45minute window
- fuel pressure guage shows pressure when on/driving, but immediately drops to 0 when key is turned off. shraeder valve showed no pressure when used to change filter.
- fuel pump whine audible, louder after wot or when fuel level is low
tb & iac cleaned
fuel filter replaced
chevron techron fuel cleaner
> what does it sound like? search tells me: fpr? pump? sticky injector? Any help apprec. Thanks, Brian
- fuel pressure guage shows pressure when on/driving, but immediately drops to 0 when key is turned off. shraeder valve showed no pressure when used to change filter.
- fuel pump whine audible, louder after wot or when fuel level is low
tb & iac cleaned
fuel filter replaced
chevron techron fuel cleaner
> what does it sound like? search tells me: fpr? pump? sticky injector? Any help apprec. Thanks, Brian
Last edited by pvkn1ght; Feb 24, 2004 at 11:40 AM.
There is a check valve in the supply side, integral with the fuel pump. Sounds like its gone bad. Requires pump replacement.
Other possibilities would be a broken diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator (look for fuel in the vacuum line) or leaking injectors (this pressure drop would be slower).
Other possibilities would be a broken diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator (look for fuel in the vacuum line) or leaking injectors (this pressure drop would be slower).
i agree time for a new pump if your going to install it your self you should go with an aftermarket one like the ractronic and use the "cut a whole in the trunk" method its a PITA job but a lot less than having a shop do it
i was quted $600 for just the labor and $300 for parts
but i did it my self taking out the gas tank (will never do it that way aging
i was quted $600 for just the labor and $300 for parts
but i did it my self taking out the gas tank (will never do it that way aging
check the pressure with a gauge to be sure. it shoud shoot up and hold steady around 40psi when you turn the key to on for the pump to prime. pressure should drop slightly but stay up around 40 when you start the car.
I've done gotten into the tank twice, the second time was to fix the fuel gauge, I decided to cut the hatch and it made things much easier. pics in the link in my sig.
I've done gotten into the tank twice, the second time was to fix the fuel gauge, I decided to cut the hatch and it made things much easier. pics in the link in my sig.
thanks for the suggestions
- i'll have a shop check fuel pressure up front related to the fpr & injectors
- is it possible to diagnose a bad fpr or is it trial/error?
besides that, no $$ for shop fix and no time/exp for a fp-hatch... especially with a slipping clutch, doh
- i'll have a shop check fuel pressure up front related to the fpr & injectors
- is it possible to diagnose a bad fpr or is it trial/error?
besides that, no $$ for shop fix and no time/exp for a fp-hatch... especially with a slipping clutch, doh
Best thing to do to check the regulator is (as Fred mentioned) to pull the vacuum line from the back and see if there is fuel in it. If so, the rubber diaphram in the regulator has ruptured. You'll also be running rich from the excessive gas entering the intake manifold.
when looking for component views, part #'s, fixes, shop diagrams, etc.... ALWAYS start with Shoebox's tech pages.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
You can see the vacuum line elbow on top of the regulator. It wraps around to the passenger side of the intake.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
You can see the vacuum line elbow on top of the regulator. It wraps around to the passenger side of the intake.
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