found my misfire.. need some info.
I'd be a bit suspicious of a mechanic that talks about the "omni spark", and the "cover crank seal". I'd also agree with the post above that questions his logic in reaching the conclusion that its cylinder #8. You can get the actual misfire count, by individual cylinder using a scanner that can access GM Enhanced Parameters. The scan should also have turned up P0308 if #8 was the main cause of the problem.
If you still feel you need an Opti, consider these source, from Shoebox's site:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason
If you still feel you need an Opti, consider these source, from Shoebox's site:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason
You may want to investigate some oil treatments as well. There may be some that have the swelling agent in them.
At the same time you change oil to a "high mileage" type, I would put a dye in it. Then if you have any more oil leaks, it would much easier to find with a UV light.
Last edited by Guest47904; Jan 15, 2007 at 04:56 AM.
2nd opinion is in!! (drum roll please).. its the opti spark, but this mechanic tracked the oil leak to the intake manifold (which explains the oil drip here and there from my tranny) and says thats what caused the opti to go out.. anywho, i really dont have the time to do the intake by my lonesome but the mechanic is allowing me to buy the parts myself (my cousin works at the dealer) and they are only charging me for labor.. $765
what do you guys think?? not about the charge for labor but the diagnosis??
what do you guys think?? not about the charge for labor but the diagnosis??
I'm willing to bet the waterpump is leaking slowly and the car is just being an LT1.... They leak and there is nothing to do other than fix the issues. Get a new opti if you need it and intake gaskets. Do it yourself. It's easy.
the leak is coming from both front and back (sorry i didnt clarify), the water pump is months old, and i bet that there is a place to do it cheaper but man im starting to see that the mechanics in this state are dousche bags.. my personal mechanic will do it for 300 and 12 pack but man hes old school and i bet he would miss out on a seal or something.. it just seems to miticulous (wow thats spelled wrong) to do myself and to trust just anyone to do it.. ugghhh its times like these that makes me HATE that damn lt1...
[ EDIT ], im going to rent a car, get the old camaro on jackstands and start pulling her apart on thursday.. since you [ EDIT ]
talked me into this you better be on here for tech support when i need it (haha), i guess itll be fun and a great learning experience... any "pregame" suggestions would be helpful ie; special tools ill need, locktite for intake manifold bolts etc etc thanks in advance guys.
talked me into this you better be on here for tech support when i need it (haha), i guess itll be fun and a great learning experience... any "pregame" suggestions would be helpful ie; special tools ill need, locktite for intake manifold bolts etc etc thanks in advance guys.
Last edited by Injuneer; Jan 17, 2007 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Do not attempt to override the language filter.
We talked you into a second opinion, not doing it yourself. You need to think hard if you want to do this. Cause if you spend all this time doing it and something is FUBAR when you are done, you gona be pissed. Then you're gona say screw this and get someone to do it anyway and you will have wasted car rental fee and time. Only to go and pay someone anyway.
Your worst pitfall will be getting the opti into the seal without rolling over the lip of the seal. Lube up the lip of the seal and the drive of the opti before you put er back in.
Your second pitfall will be getting the opti on correctly. My advise for that is remove the cap on the old opti BEFORE you remove the opti from the engine. Clean a spot on the front timing cover and mark the point were the rotor is pointing. Remove the cap from the new one so when you put the new one on, you line up the new rotor with the mark on the timing cover. Much easier to seat then any other way.
Third, don't use the crappy cork gaskets for the front and rear of the intake manifold. Use Permatex Black Max only. Be sure the surfaces are clean and apply a 1/4 inch bead front and back and go 1/2 inch onto the edge of the intake gasket (you'll see the spot when you get the intake gaskets). Drop the intake straight down, don't slide it once it's down. Use a friend if need be. Torque the intake in 3 steps. First go round, (71 in/lbs) or 6 Ft/lbs) the second go round, 20 Ft/lbs and last go round tighten finally to 35 Ft/lbs. Don't forget the sequence from center crisscross working your way out to the outer ends. You can tighten in 2 steps but the more steps you use the better the results of the torque process. So it's 5 more minutes big deal. Use blue loc-tite on the screws (after you clean them).
Be absolutely sure the injector clips are marked with the injector number BEFORE you remove them.
You will need the tool to disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the intake.
A torx socket to remove the cap from the opti. (Throttle body screws work as a drive tool if need be).
Your worst pitfall will be getting the opti into the seal without rolling over the lip of the seal. Lube up the lip of the seal and the drive of the opti before you put er back in.
Your second pitfall will be getting the opti on correctly. My advise for that is remove the cap on the old opti BEFORE you remove the opti from the engine. Clean a spot on the front timing cover and mark the point were the rotor is pointing. Remove the cap from the new one so when you put the new one on, you line up the new rotor with the mark on the timing cover. Much easier to seat then any other way.
Third, don't use the crappy cork gaskets for the front and rear of the intake manifold. Use Permatex Black Max only. Be sure the surfaces are clean and apply a 1/4 inch bead front and back and go 1/2 inch onto the edge of the intake gasket (you'll see the spot when you get the intake gaskets). Drop the intake straight down, don't slide it once it's down. Use a friend if need be. Torque the intake in 3 steps. First go round, (71 in/lbs) or 6 Ft/lbs) the second go round, 20 Ft/lbs and last go round tighten finally to 35 Ft/lbs. Don't forget the sequence from center crisscross working your way out to the outer ends. You can tighten in 2 steps but the more steps you use the better the results of the torque process. So it's 5 more minutes big deal. Use blue loc-tite on the screws (after you clean them).
Be absolutely sure the injector clips are marked with the injector number BEFORE you remove them.
You will need the tool to disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the intake.
A torx socket to remove the cap from the opti. (Throttle body screws work as a drive tool if need be).
Oh yeah, if the seals are leaking and need to be replaced. You either pull them and replace them with the cover on or you have to loosen the oil pan and drop it down to get the front cover off. And if the front cover gasket is leaking well sorry. Hubs got to come off as well.
this party sucks..!! haha i apologize about my language above.. i hope everyone knows i was joking.. i have a weird sense of humor sometimes..
and thanks for the advice speedy, i have till monday to decide.. Thanks
and thanks for the advice speedy, i have till monday to decide.. Thanks
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