Finally...track times
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=542554
Again as I said big difference in the PAC 1218's and the 2006+ Comp 26918's, makes you wonder why the same setup run with the correct springs can be down less than 5lbs seated at 15,000miles.
Bret
Kinda makes the 918's you have for sale useless then...
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=542554
Again as I said big difference in the PAC 1218's and the 2006+ Comp 26918's, makes you wonder why the same setup run with the correct springs can be down less than 5lbs seated at 15,000miles.
Bret
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=542554
Again as I said big difference in the PAC 1218's and the 2006+ Comp 26918's, makes you wonder why the same setup run with the correct springs can be down less than 5lbs seated at 15,000miles.
Bret
And I bought everything from you, yet you are claiming they weren't the correct springs?
Reporting back from the garage....
I pulled the valve covers...and found absolutely nothing wrong. No loose poly locks, no broken valve springs, no rockers too tight, nothing
I even bumped the motor over several times and looked over everything very closely with a flashlight. Everything looks great.
Then I was thinking that I must have a burned plug wire or something, but no, all the plug wires are still zip tied out of harm's way. So I made sure that they were all snapped in place on the spark plugs as well on the opti terminals. The only thing that turned up was that the coil wire wasn't quite snapped all the way on to the terminal on the opti. Apparently, it was making good enough connection to start and run the car, so I doubt that was the problem.
The one thing that I found that doesn't look good is the inside of the intake is covered in oil. I tried to prevent this by putting a BF412 filter in the passenger valve cover, and it worked so far because the inside of the crankcase vent hose was bone dry. So the oil must be coming from the pcv system. I guess I need a catch can.
Is it possible that my motor is sucking enough oil from the pcv to cause my popping @5800+???
Thats all I can come up with so far.....
I guess my plan of action is putting in a fresh set of TR6's (Autolite 104s in it right now), and installing a catch can. Then if the problem still persists....bad opti maybe?
I pulled the valve covers...and found absolutely nothing wrong. No loose poly locks, no broken valve springs, no rockers too tight, nothing
I even bumped the motor over several times and looked over everything very closely with a flashlight. Everything looks great.Then I was thinking that I must have a burned plug wire or something, but no, all the plug wires are still zip tied out of harm's way. So I made sure that they were all snapped in place on the spark plugs as well on the opti terminals. The only thing that turned up was that the coil wire wasn't quite snapped all the way on to the terminal on the opti. Apparently, it was making good enough connection to start and run the car, so I doubt that was the problem.
The one thing that I found that doesn't look good is the inside of the intake is covered in oil. I tried to prevent this by putting a BF412 filter in the passenger valve cover, and it worked so far because the inside of the crankcase vent hose was bone dry. So the oil must be coming from the pcv system. I guess I need a catch can.
Is it possible that my motor is sucking enough oil from the pcv to cause my popping @5800+???
Thats all I can come up with so far.....
I guess my plan of action is putting in a fresh set of TR6's (Autolite 104s in it right now), and installing a catch can. Then if the problem still persists....bad opti maybe?
Last edited by Colin91Z; Oct 31, 2007 at 10:33 PM.
As far as I can tell, yes, only under load. I didn't try free reving it though, if the problem is still there when I put it back together then I'll try that. And no new noises. Everything sounded perfectly normal at idle, or when just cruising around. It only did it when it got to ~5800rpm at WOT.
Temp didn't seem to effect it
As far as I can tell, yes, only under load. I didn't try free reving it though, if the problem is still there when I put it back together then I'll try that. And no new noises. Everything sounded perfectly normal at idle, or when just cruising around. It only did it when it got to ~5800rpm at WOT.
Temp didn't seem to effect it
Temp didn't seem to effect it

If I don't come up with anything in the ignition, then I'll tape my fuel pressure gauge to the windsheild and go for a drive.
No codes...the car is a 96 but I've converted it to OBD1 so I don't have a crank sensor anymore. I don't think that the OBD1 systems will throw a misfire code like the OBD2 systems, will they?
I traced all the wires looking for cuts or burns, but when I change the plugs tonight I'll just go ahead and remove them completely and inspect them.
If I don't come up with anything in the ignition, then I'll tape my fuel pressure gauge to the windsheild and go for a drive.
No codes...the car is a 96 but I've converted it to OBD1 so I don't have a crank sensor anymore. I don't think that the OBD1 systems will throw a misfire code like the OBD2 systems, will they?
If I don't come up with anything in the ignition, then I'll tape my fuel pressure gauge to the windsheild and go for a drive.
No codes...the car is a 96 but I've converted it to OBD1 so I don't have a crank sensor anymore. I don't think that the OBD1 systems will throw a misfire code like the OBD2 systems, will they?

So if there's no high of low res. code, does that mean that the problem is not in the ignition system?
Last edited by Colin91Z; Nov 1, 2007 at 09:08 AM.
Not necessarily... the opti can do funny things w/o throwing a code, happened to me when I first got the car.

As already stated there could be other problems like the notorious one for the rotor becoming loose. However since it's only in that one part of the rpm band where you experience a missfire then that is unlikely. Concentrate first on fuel and all other ignition components first.




