LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Finally...track times

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Old Oct 31, 2007 | 07:58 PM
  #91  
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Thanks for the tips, guys

Now that I'm back from trick-or-treating...I'll be headed to the garage to see if I can find the source of my problem. Hopefully it's an easy fix
Old Oct 31, 2007 | 08:27 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
I never said I was an expert, and they were down 30 lbs on the seat after 4000 miles.
Kinda makes the 918's you have for sale useless then...

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=542554

Again as I said big difference in the PAC 1218's and the 2006+ Comp 26918's, makes you wonder why the same setup run with the correct springs can be down less than 5lbs seated at 15,000miles.

Bret
Old Oct 31, 2007 | 09:35 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Kinda makes the 918's you have for sale useless then...

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=542554

Again as I said big difference in the PAC 1218's and the 2006+ Comp 26918's, makes you wonder why the same setup run with the correct springs can be down less than 5lbs seated at 15,000miles.

Bret
They aren't for sale that threads months old. And I sold the heads with brand new pac 1218 springs. And I bought everything from you, yet you are claiming they weren't the correct springs?
Old Oct 31, 2007 | 10:28 PM
  #94  
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Reporting back from the garage....

I pulled the valve covers...and found absolutely nothing wrong. No loose poly locks, no broken valve springs, no rockers too tight, nothing I even bumped the motor over several times and looked over everything very closely with a flashlight. Everything looks great.

Then I was thinking that I must have a burned plug wire or something, but no, all the plug wires are still zip tied out of harm's way. So I made sure that they were all snapped in place on the spark plugs as well on the opti terminals. The only thing that turned up was that the coil wire wasn't quite snapped all the way on to the terminal on the opti. Apparently, it was making good enough connection to start and run the car, so I doubt that was the problem.

The one thing that I found that doesn't look good is the inside of the intake is covered in oil. I tried to prevent this by putting a BF412 filter in the passenger valve cover, and it worked so far because the inside of the crankcase vent hose was bone dry. So the oil must be coming from the pcv system. I guess I need a catch can.

Is it possible that my motor is sucking enough oil from the pcv to cause my popping @5800+???

Thats all I can come up with so far.....

I guess my plan of action is putting in a fresh set of TR6's (Autolite 104s in it right now), and installing a catch can. Then if the problem still persists....bad opti maybe?

Last edited by Colin91Z; Oct 31, 2007 at 10:33 PM.
Old Oct 31, 2007 | 11:33 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Then again you would have to be around motors not drafting boards and CAD programs all day to know what happens in the real world.

Funny you talking to me about the real world. Hilarious.
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
Does this happen only under load? Any new noises?
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 04:22 AM
  #97  
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maybe you coil is bad or getting heatsoaked, is the an issue at any temp or only after the car has been running a while?
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Does this happen only under load? Any new noises?
As far as I can tell, yes, only under load. I didn't try free reving it though, if the problem is still there when I put it back together then I'll try that. And no new noises. Everything sounded perfectly normal at idle, or when just cruising around. It only did it when it got to ~5800rpm at WOT.
Originally Posted by 87bandit
maybe you coil is bad or getting heatsoaked, is the an issue at any temp or only after the car has been running a while?
Temp didn't seem to effect it
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
As far as I can tell, yes, only under load. I didn't try free reving it though, if the problem is still there when I put it back together then I'll try that. And no new noises. Everything sounded perfectly normal at idle, or when just cruising around. It only did it when it got to ~5800rpm at WOT.


Temp didn't seem to effect it
I'd look at fuel/ignition before anything mechanical. Put a fuel gauge on it and see what happens. In order to find a burnt plug wire you may need to take them off. They can be real sneaky. I would guess there are no codes?
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 08:57 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
I'd look at fuel/ignition before anything mechanical. Put a fuel gauge on it and see what happens. In order to find a burnt plug wire you may need to take them off. They can be real sneaky. I would guess there are no codes?
I traced all the wires looking for cuts or burns, but when I change the plugs tonight I'll just go ahead and remove them completely and inspect them.

If I don't come up with anything in the ignition, then I'll tape my fuel pressure gauge to the windsheild and go for a drive.

No codes...the car is a 96 but I've converted it to OBD1 so I don't have a crank sensor anymore. I don't think that the OBD1 systems will throw a misfire code like the OBD2 systems, will they?
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
I traced all the wires looking for cuts or burns, but when I change the plugs tonight I'll just go ahead and remove them completely and inspect them.

If I don't come up with anything in the ignition, then I'll tape my fuel pressure gauge to the windsheild and go for a drive.

No codes...the car is a 96 but I've converted it to OBD1 so I don't have a crank sensor anymore. I don't think that the OBD1 systems will throw a misfire code like the OBD2 systems, will they?
No, but it should throw a high and/or low res. trouble code which could lead you to your problem.
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
No, but it should throw a high and/or low res. trouble code which could lead you to your problem.
Well thats confusing then, it hasn't thrown a code at all

So if there's no high of low res. code, does that mean that the problem is not in the ignition system?

Last edited by Colin91Z; Nov 1, 2007 at 09:08 AM.
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:19 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
Well thats confusing then, it hasn't thrown a code at all

So if there's no high of low res. code, does that mean that the problem is not in the ignition system?
Not necessarily... the opti can do funny things w/o throwing a code, happened to me when I first got the car.
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:37 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
Well thats confusing then, it hasn't thrown a code at all

So if there's no high of low res. code, does that mean that the problem is not in the ignition system?
Yeah I didnt think that one all the way through.
As already stated there could be other problems like the notorious one for the rotor becoming loose. However since it's only in that one part of the rpm band where you experience a missfire then that is unlikely. Concentrate first on fuel and all other ignition components first.
Old Nov 1, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #105  
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Gotcha



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