If you will read some of our posts all you have to do is swap some pipe plugs and things across the heads. Taking the heads off and swapping them requires 2 new head gaskets and new bolts.

 

I read what needed to be swapped, but unforunantly the plugs that are in the heads will not come out. I tried using a 1/4" rachet and it broke the head of it off. So those plugs are in there really tight. I cant reuse my ARP head bolts? And the head gasket is going to be torqued to the same spec as it was before, so why cant I use that as well?

 

With the correct size pipe plug removers they will come out no problem. Taking out a few plugs is 50x easier than removing the valvetrain and removing/reinstalling heads. ARP bolts are reusable as they are not torque to yield. The head gasket is already compressed so you must use a new one....unless you want to run a decent chance of blowing them and then you get to swap heads in the car.

 

lol, thats awesome man. dont worry about the messup, it happens. just make sure you move the coil back to the front and i would swap the plugs as mentioned. i would also buy new seals for the coolant tubes that hook to the back of the heads before you put those on too (make sure you do all 4 of the seals!). would be a pain to mess with after the engine goes back in.

get the wire holders at http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=104
its the side mount kit. same ones i use. i like them.

silvershark, i was just thinking about this since i was just on the thunderracing website...i would advise using spark plug boot heat shields too (if you havent done so already!). youll be glad you did. i use the same wire kit and sometimes find i have a hard time keeping a few of the wires away from the headers (due to vibrations and getting slack in the wires at times...). these shields have saved me a few times! found here: http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=198

 

Thanks for the plug wire holder info.
Ya didn't read my post where I said "no an extension won't work and they are TIGHT" and better get the tool to take them out before ya round them and can't take them out.

Oh well.

 

Ok, sorry for being so spacey earlier. I was running on 4hours of sleep and I hadnt had food in 8 hours. On top of all that I was trying to get ready for fathers day. Anyhow, I now read everything in the posts above.

With that being said, thanks for pointing them towards thunder racing and letting them know what I was using.

I will try and look for that pipe plug removal tool. My best bet may be a plumbing store? It looks really small. I know comercially plumbers use pipe caps that require a special tool but they are for much larger diameter pipe normally. So if someone could point me where I might be able to find this tool I would appreciate it.

Defiantly removing the plugs and swaping the ignition coil around sounds way easier than removing all the valvetrain stuff and swapping heads around. I will try and start on it tomorrow when I have slept for a decent amount of time before tackling anything.

Thanks again for the help guys!

 

Try an auto parts that handles a good supply of tools or the Snap On man,I think it is a 5/16" square for the ones in the side where the temp sender goes and the same on the ends. Before I got the square drive tool for a ratchet, I used a piece of key stock and a crescent wrench.

 

Ok, Ive tried everything and I cannot remove those plugs. Can they stay in the back of the head?? I started to strip out both of the plugs. They just wont budge. I tried adding heat, using a breaker bar etc. No luck. They are in there solid. Is there any other way of getting these out??? What purpose do they serve in the back of the heads? Why cant I just add 2 in the front and leave the ones in the back?

 

Your water crossover/air bleed goes there and to the rad.She'll run hot if not connected.

Did ya get a tool?? NO but that is what it will take. They are put in from the factory with Locktite thread sealer and were not intended to be fooled with.Ya can swap the heads with a lot of work and 60-70 dollars for new gaskets and don't try to use them again unless they are copper or Cometic's That might bring on MORE work down the road.

 

Ok, thanks for the helpful info. It sounds like it will probobly be easier if I just swap the heads around and get new gaskets. Unfortunantly.

These are the Felpro 1074's, correct?

I bored .030 over and i am using the summit forged kit. So these head gaskets should work??

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

I will just have them overnight ship.

 

Correct.