A while back I put in two new NTK 02 sensors and everything was fine. After a couple weeks I started to get 0153 (bank 2 slow response). I switched the sensors and the code went to the other side (0133); so I knew I had a bad sensor. I ordered another NTK sensor and put it in the other day. STILL getting 0133. I did ding the new sensor against my oil pan lightly while maneuvering under the car, so maybe it's my fault; but still I'm starting to get pissed at these things. OK, so not being in a hurry to spend (another) 50 bucks, am I hurting anything if I'm driving around with this code for a while? The car runs normally, I can't discern any difference when the code is on or off. Also, how bad of an idea is it to run 02's that are different brands? I'm starting to get leery of the NTK's and wanna try something else, but I'd hate to buy two new sensors when I know the one is OK. Thanks

 

NEVER ever use aftermarket O2s. I have a couple of vehicles, none if which can tolerate them. It was explained to me that even though most O2s are made by the same company, a few use less numbers that operate in a wider range than a lot of vehicles can use.

What you want are either GM or AC Delco both made by Standard.

Oh yeah, one of the items in the check list for your problem is contamination. Fuel, oil, coolant or improper sealant. Did you do any repairs lately? What about coolant level?

 

I don't think contamination is a factor, since the code followed the first sensor over, and hasn't returned to bank 2.

 

I bought my last set for $38 each on Ebay now i only see them for $75+ if you can find them at all. Ac Delco or you will be dealing with this a lot. They last a long time and $150 for a pair is still a good deal. Aftermarket 02's $50 and then $50 and on and on. Using Ac Delco 02's, priceless

 

Sorry but contamination many times goes away after the engine runs for a while. However, until it goes away, it wipes out the sensor. Capish.

You proved the sensor was bad, I was making a point or more precisely asking the question of "did you do some repair that may have included a potential contaminate like RTV or any other type of gasket material?????

 

Yes, I ordered some on ebay the other day that were about 40 bucks for a pair. Borg Warner I think. Anyway, I'll try them and see, then spring for AC Delcos I guess. It's kinda funny, cause the original sensors were so messed up the car wouldn't even run until it was warm... and they never tripped a single code.

 

I see where you were going. No, I haven't done any repairs, and I'm not losing any coolant that I know of. I did use some exhaust sealant on my EGR pipe, but that's in bank two, which is problem fee.

 

sorry to highjack the thread but i have a dumb O2 question. i'm putting mac mid tubes on when i install my rebuilt engine, im not putting any egr stuff back and im not really concerned with polution stuff. i know some headers dont have O2 bungs and some people weld them shut. would i need to use O2 sensors and if so how will they help me?

 

The PCM needs the O2 sensors to fuel the engine. The PCM uses feedback from the pre-cat O2 sensors to hold the A/F ratio, dithering it slightly above and below 14.7:1 so the cats will work. In addition to helping emissions, it keeps the engine operating at a fairly decent fuel economy. And, it allows the PCM to adapt to minor changes in the enginie's condition's and mod's. To run without the sensors, you would have to have the PCM programmed to run continually in open loop. Doing that would prevent the PCM from achieving good fuel mileage, and adjusting to changes to the engine. Losing control of the A/F ratio will also lead to conditions where it may run excessively rich, or excessively lean.

If you want to run an open loop tune, keep the O2 sensor bungs on the exhaust so you can run a wide-band O2 sensor (or sensors) and keep track of the A/F ratio and avoid conditions that could damage the engine.

Not to say it can't be done... I run an open loop tune on an aftermarket ECU. But the setup required extensive dyno time and periodic verification on the dyno.

 

when you swapped the sensor from side to side did you also swap the o2 sensor extension

 

Nope.

 

I'm posting for anyone that has this problem in the future. Recently, I had been having what I thought was a misfire, but turned out to be more of a hesitation/stumble. It was doing this during idle and partial load. Also running rich. The car has 100k and the plugs and wires looked original so I replaced those (Boy was that a hellish initiation into the LT1 society). I found cracked wires and assumed that was part of the problem. I also found that all four plugs on the left side were black and all the ones on the right were normal gray. My Dad really knows his stuff about cars. Even though he really isn't familiar with late model chevys, the only part he could think of that has an impact on all four cylinders on one side is the oxygen sensor. We took a torch to the new one and the old one and noticed that the new one cycled faster and in a broader range of mV's, so we took that as evidence we were on the right track. So I replaced that too. But, I replaced it with a Walker o2 sensory (cheap Chinese POS), not even a Bosch.

At first, things seemed all right. But, the problem slowly returned. And, WORSE. The car is a DD, so I had to keep driving it. It got to the point where the car bogged so bad under partial load, it jarred the whole car. It was also idling very poorly. The tone of the exhaust changed, which I also read will happen. So ANNOYING! My freakin car!

At this point, I started thinking it might be the Opti. "Oh God no," I said to myself. Did get things dirty when I changed the plugs and wires? I thought the problem came back right after I had hit a big puddle in the rain and I figured I had moisture in the Opti (Even though it's a 95 and is vented). But, this must have just been coincidence. I read a ton of threads on that subject and eventually got under the car with my Dad's heat gun. That didn't work and thank God I didn't melt the damn thing.

When the problem came back worse, the car now started throwing Code 44 - lean condition in the left bank from the o2. Anyway, I knew from reading up that there were other possibilities that could explain this other than just not having a non-delco/gm o2 sensor, but I really had a good feeling that was it. Threw that in about a half an hour ago and my baby is back to normal!

So, I wanted to post this to help anyone with these problems in the future and to thank everyone else who was on this board because with your help I was able to diagnose the real problem and not just throw parts at it. Thank you!