What would happen if the hose from the EVAP solenoid didnt run to the canister in the rear?? And what if that little tiny hose coming off the EGR valve was broken?? Also where should that little hose coming off the EGR go EXACTLY?? Sorry for the ignorance im new to more in depth mech., I pick up very quickly and do not mean to insult anyones intelligence with my lack of knowledge. Im here to learn and make my sexy car be sexy again.

Car is a 95 z28 LT1 Fbody

 

If the EGR vacuum hose is cracked between the solenoid and the EGR valve, you have a vacuum leak every time the PCM pulse width modulates the EGR valve, and the EGR valve doesn't work. Shoebox has photos of most of the systems/components on a 95 Z28:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

If you haven't been to his website - bookmark it.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

 

If the EVAP purge solenoid is not connected to the charcoal canister in the drivers rear fender, the canister will saturate with the hydrocarbon vapor vented from the fuel tank. Eventually is will start to vent the fumes directly to atmosphere and you will have a fuel smell in the back of the car.

Where is yours connected?

Again, Shoebox has the answers:

http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/evap_system.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/1995_evap.jpg

 

Thanks man that helped clear up a lot I book marked that site as well thank you. I want to ask as well, will that canister in the rear have to be replaced if I am smelling fuel from the rear (which i am slightly i believe) or do i just run the hose to the rear like it should have been?

 

If its not being purged, its going to fill up with recovered hydrocarbons. I'd reconnect the hose and verify the system operation. Purging if regularly may clean the canister out. If it continues to smell long term, the canister may need to be replaced. If the charcoal breaks down, it can be pulled into the vacuum system, and plug the purge solenoid, or prevent it from closing. Or the hoses could plug with carbon particles.

 

So it sounds like it might be a safer bet for me to go ahead and remove and replace that canister with a new one. Well thank you this has helped a lot.

I plugged the egr's little hose back to where it should have gone. Car ran a lot smoother for a little while, and then went back to its rough idling after turning it off and letting it sit. After the intial run and turning it off, it didnt wanna start back up (after sitting for about 45 to an hour) then it got going again back to a hesitant idle. (after about two tries, had never done that one before either)

There are a few vacuum hoses that dont look right to me, and one that is not even there at all is the intial hose coming off right before the MAF sensor! No idea where i should be connecting that, as I dont wanna just find a place and put it there. Could not find a clear diagram on that, I figured because that is also common knowledge.

There is the one from the throttle body to the Purge Solenoid that needs a better seal (incorrect size hose) and of course the hose below it we talked about (also completely missing). These luckily enough have been figured out!!

 

There is a vacuum routing diagram sticker on the radiator cover. Shoebox (once again) has a photo of it:

http://shbox.com/1/emission_hose_routing.jpg

 

The hose off of the air intake (before the MAF sensor) is the one im referring too, I could be wrong but I dont believe it is part of the emissions..I wanted to say its more of the intake. needless to say I havent come across where that simple hose goes on shoe box or elsewhere.

my car doesnt even have that diagram...

Also wanted to know if it would be better to replace that canister in the rear or to just run that hose to it from the front? I dont wanna have it end up getting clogged? or should it be okay?

 

Hose on a little blue elbow, that is stuck into the 90-deg rubber elbow? Opti vent air supply line. That is not shown on the emissions diagram. There is also a vacuum line from the driver's side of the intake manfold to the Opti. That line is shown on the diagram.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/ci/opti_vent.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_harness.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_conn.jpg

 

On the second picture you posted on your last post, with the little hose...that one is nearest the area im talking about. On the other side of the MAF sensor is the only thing, because it is on the other side id say somewhere around a half inch in diameter is the nipple that pokes off the air intake...centered between the air filter box and the MAF sensor pointing towards the firewall. I appreciate your patience in all of this i know its kitty stuff to what you usually do with these cars, but i am reading and looking for info on it. Im thinking maybe it is a Possibility they used a different air intake part instead of a factory, the only reason i second guess that is because it looks to be the same as what ive seen on the majority of the pictures..

 

There is a 5/8" connection on the back of the air inlet ducting for the air feed to the AIR pump. That's one I don't think Shoebox has a picture of. If that connection is open, you're pulling dirty/hot air into the engine. If the AIR pump is still there, it should be reconnected. If the AIR pump has been deleted, put a 5/8" vacuum cap on the air duct connection.

In Shoebox's diagram, look at the diagram in the upper left corner. It shows the AIR pump, and the connection from the air ducting that you appear to be asking about routes to the connection labeled "A.I.R. Pump Inlet Hose".

http://shbox.com/1/air_pump_recall.jpg

 

Thanks again man, you my friend are a very educated person! Ima check that out as soon as i get to the house.

Edit: Forgot to ask would this cause rough idling too?

 

This was the problem the hose they put there was literally falling apart, i put one brought it up to where it should go, and the idle calmed down a lot only one i have left is the hose that runs from the EVAP canister to the front to do. Also put a clamp onto the purge valve solenoid hose that runs to the throttle body.

The rough idling calmed down a lot, but the engine itself is still lacking a lot of power. At a stand still if you give it WOT it doesnt respond, if you let off the gas slightly it begins to respond again but with lack of power and harsh shifting into second with moderate or heavy gas.

 

Okay so I got the line running from the canister into the car connected, now Im going to remove the throttle body and injectors and give them a cleaning. Figured it needs to be done anyways and Im lacking some serious power over here feals like im in a very loud 4 cylinder.

Next will be the opti and spark plugs but need to wait for a nice loan to come into my account to start swapping out parts.