I just got my Air/Fuel Ratio gauge rewired properly, and it's finally working great. Props to Limiteded1le for the help

Anyways, i pulled my water temp gauge out of the pillar to make room for a Fuel Pressure Gauge.

My main question would be: What are the pros and cons of electrical versus mechanilca fuel pressure gauges?? Either one better than the other? or are they pretty similar? I noticed it's a MUCH more expensive gauge that others too.

I don't have N20 right now, but i may in the future. I figure this would be a good gauge to have, I also plan on going with a Trans Temp gauge too.

Any discussion, opinions, or help would be appreciated as always, thanks all.

 

Hey the gague was no problem. You're welcome for the labor!
Just remember to stick to the researching, and I'll be the mechanic and do your dirty work. Haha

It's about time your gague works, since that hack-job-yokle who wired it before me really ****ed it up.

 

mechanical has to be mounted OUTSIDE of the car and the electrical can be mounted inside the car. that's really the only difference. i have a full sweep electrical fuel pressure guage. they cost a grip of cash but mine was worth it

 

It used to be that mechanical gauges were considered more accurate and gave a more "immediate" response as compared to the electrical gauges. But, the electrical gauges have come a long way in recent years and I rarely hear mention of these past "problems" with the newer electrical gauges.

I have an inside the car mechanical gauge via a high pressure isolator. These isolators have been known to fail frequently so if you decide to go this route over an electrical fp gauge then you'll want to check every so often to ensure the isolator diaphragm has not failed!

 

I see

Thank u very much Brent and InjectedSS. Sounds like electric will be the way to go for me. Probably a lot easier to install too right?

 

I started with an AutoMeter full-sweep mechanical, and their #5280 high pressure isolator. It was a problem system. Very hard to fill the "passenger" side of the system with glycol and keep it filled and accurate, and eventually the isolator failed and allowed fuel into the "passenger" side. AutoMeter actually recalled that isolator, replascd it with the #5281, and that one had problems and was discontinued. Now they have the #5282, and that one is over $100 just for the isolator. Add the cost of the braided lines and the mechanical gauge, and you have spent about the same amount as the top-of-the-line, full-sweep AutoMeter electric gauge.

I have had ZERO problems with the AutoMeter electric fuel pressure gauge. I would recommend that you get the more expensive, full-sweep, 3-piece electric gauge, and not the low $$$ 90-deg sweep 2-piece electric gauge. The "sensor" for the low $$$ guage has had some problems, although only in certain models. And the pressure "marks" on the 90-deg sweep gauge are just too sparse to make accurate pressure settings. The full-sweep (270-deg) gauge has 2psi increments, and seems to be very accurate and very responsive.

Gauge panel