I've got a CS1 electric water pump which i wired the same as on the site http://ken.lowrance.com/projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm
but for some reason my relay keeps going on me, I think it might be shorting out somewhere but im not sure. Is there a way that I could wire it so that I wouldnt have to have the relay in the wiring.


Thanks,
Kurt

 

I used that same diagram to wire my CSI. I'm using a "key on" wire from my fuse box for the "86" pole on the relay. It's been this way for a year with no problems. Are you using a good (Bosch) relay? Is everything grounded good?

Frank

 

Well I'm not sure what kind of relay is on it. It was working for a year and half before i took the engine out this winter so maybe i lost a connection in the process. Has anyone used any different wiring diagrams when they've done their pumps?


Thanks,
Kurt

 

i have my CSI grounded and then powered by the ignition fuse under the hood no other wiring or relays, 2 wire hookup. works good so far

 

Well I like the idea of a indicator lamp since this is my daily driver, also an inline fuse just in case.


Kurt

 

I got a dual fuse adapter, plugged it into my ignition fuse jack in the fuse box, then stuck 1 fuse in for the ignition and 1 fuse in for the electric pump. works fine

 

What is the purpose of a relay? Why couldnt I just connect the two connections that the relay connects?


Kurt

 

I'm using the above diagram with no problems. I also have the light and switch hooked up.

 

Depending on where you splice in at, it can work without the relay. However, I don't recommend hooking it up like this and strongly suggest using the relay.

These pumps draw a few amps and by using a relay you transfer the amp draw off the splice and directly to the battery (or where ever you hooked into at).

You don't want your pump drawing down the circuit you tapped into because you may overload that circuit.

 

If you are worried about a short somewhere, then you need to recheck or redo the wiring. I ran all the wiring inside convoluted plastic tubing like that used by the factory, in some cases double tubing to protect from heat. All the wiring to the pump is 10 ga, which is probably overkill. My wiring runs from the positive distribution block next to the battery, through an inline fuse holder, through the relay, to the pump, and then back to the negative distribution block next to the battery. In total, there is only about six feet of wiring for the pump itself. Both the large 10 ga. wiring and the short length of the wiring are designed to minimize resistance and voltage drop in the wiring.

The activation for the relay is controlled by tapping off the "Cruise/AC" fuse in the fuse box under the hood. I also have an indicator circuit which lights up a greed LED if the pump is working normally, and a red LED if the power fails. This is just for my peace of mind.

The relay I used is the same as the one for the fog lights.

I have had this system in operation for over 7,000 miles now with no problems. I did have a pump failure, but that was due to a broken wiring harness on the CSI pump, and not to my wiring.

BRAD

 

I ran my reference power wire from the relay off of the power wire to the coil (little pink wire).