LOL!!

 

If you need to fix that crank and cannot send it back - you can take it to the machine shop and have them knurl the snout - that will pick up .001-.002" of OD and give you a press fit with the damper.

 

Maybe a shop can do something similar to a knurl inside the hub, instead? Kind of like the cheesy way they fix valve guides by reaming, except the hub is not a through hole so it might be harder to do. I have done something similar before, by using a non-spinning lathe to pull a hard tool axially along an ID and repeatedly 'scratching' it to cause an interference fit. But that was on aluminum, and I don't know if you could do it on a hard hub.

Or just have them put a keyway in. Since it's a torsional damper it sees some pretty high twisting forces, so you want to make sure it can't spin and take out your crank.

If you do decide to just try it as is, you could use some Locktite Sleeve and Bearing formula as insurance, as long as you remember to heat the hub up to soften the adhesive before you take it off again.

 

That would be cool if it's possible!



That's probably what I'll end up doing.

 

Why not do both? It's something you don't what to have to worry about.

 

Knurling will make it feel tight but will not hold it on. I think a keyway would work, but I wonder if it will still work back and forth in the frontal plane and cause something to break.

For those who haven't already bought their parts: If you can't afford a good domestic crank, the Callies Compstar stuff is rough forged overseas and finished here to a much higher quality than Eagle at the same price. The Eagle stuff is ok except for the QC. The snouts are an example. The Callies stuff comes through perfect.

Rich

 

I second the Callies Compstar recommendation. I compared mine to a buddies Eagle, and the difference in surface finish quality was very obvious. On the Eagle, you could see radial scratches on the rear thrust face from the grinding wheel touching it when surfacing the journal. Now his car eats thrust bearing surfaces (push style clutch).

 

I wouldn't trust it even w/ a keyway. If it just slides on then it may be prone to vibration and as stated something could end up broken. To me it's much more worth taking the crank out and having it replaced then taking that kind of chance.

 

I was thinking more like boring the hub and machining a liner for it or something....It was the only thing I could think of since he was trying to avoid taking it back apart, and it was a budget built/used parts

Contact ATI they machine some of the hubs smaller and then you machine it to the final ID you want.....but that will still run you around
$400

 

It's not THAT loose, to where it wobbles back and forth or anything.

 

To add to the crank snout being to small, the damn opposite end was ALSO too small. The converter wouldn't go up in it enough(not even close) to bolt it to the flywheel.

Of course, I only noticed this after I had already bolted the tranny up to the motor!

Ended up taking it back apart and taking a Dremel too to the ID of the crank taking just enough for it to barely slide in.

I have seen other people have this problem and it could be the converter... no clue, really.

 

Did you check the rest of the crank to make sure nothing else was way off? Like the bearing journals?

 

Did you consider Locktite RC 680 Retaining Compound. As I remember it's capable of filling a sliding fit of up to 0.015". Sounds like it might be what you're looking for. I've used it with success on industrial pumps and motors.

 

Might be to late to key it with everything on but locktite works very well. apply it to the inside of the hub and bolt it on.

 

Clearances were fine, but I didn't check for taper.