Finally got around to messing around with the car. Changed the plugs and put ngk tr6's in and it pulls a lot harder. The back 2 plugs were darker than the other 6 though not too sure. It seems to run much better.

 

i just got my 383 on the dyno a couple days ago and it topped out at 353hp 372ft-lbs. it seems to peak at 5500rpm (358hp) but then dies off a bit and plains out. now the guy who tuned it is an ls1 boy and he says lt1 intakes are garbage. what other options do i have? do you recommend the edlebrock intake?

stock heads worked over, cam might be too tiny 220/230 at .50 with 1.6 rockers, fast 36lbs injectors

 

The LT1 intake is fine.... no problem supporting 500HP at the flywheel (425 - 435 rwHP) with minor porting. The Edelbrock suffers from a reduced plenum volume. The more HP you try and make with it, the worse its going to be. Dyno test have shown it offers no advantage.

 

There is at least one stock shortblock I know of with an UNported stock intake making 429rwhp. If a stroker is making only 350rwhp the intake is the last thing you should be worried about. You want to jump to a conclusion I would much sooner suspect the heads are not well done.

Modestly ported LT1 intakes have gone over 500rwhp naturally aspirated with good solid roller cam setups sometimes with ported LT1 heads.

You cam is a little short on duration for a stroker, let me guess Comp Cams "305" LT1 Camshaft, 220 / 230, .510 / .510 114 LSA it is .544 lift with 1.6s
Way too little lift and made when there was a misguided belief that the pcm needed ridiculously wide LSA, basically all the fast NA stuff these days is running down closer to 108 LSA and usually .590-.610 lift and a stroker even a street stroker that will rarely see the strip should have at the bare minimum mid 220s intake duration.

If you had asked questions FIRST you could have had another 50hp pretty easily, another 100hp at the tire if you wanted it still with LT1 heads and LT1 intake and a hydraulic cam..

 

Thats the cam you described. Now what about this cam for my car?
XFI 292 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Lift: .584"/.579" w/1.6 Rockers
Duration: 292°/300°
too big?
Another thing, on the dyno was my car wasn't taking much timing, it seamed like it didnt want it. is it because my valve train is too chatty or maybe the stiff motor mounts? my car vibrates alot cause of those mounts

 

I wouldn't use that cam either.
Define "wasn't taking much timing"?
LT1 heads don't need as much advance as older stuff.
What is your compression ratio?
Can you post the graph maybe in a new thread?

 

The car has 10:1 compression. The tuner was trying to add more timing but the knock sensor kept taking it out. could have been bad fuel? i had shell 91 octane, next time i go to the dyno im gonna use husky 94 oct. i wanna change my cam forsure tho, what about this one?
Comp Cams XFI 280 Hydraulic Roller
Operating Range: 2000-6000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 280° Intake / 288° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .576'' Intake / .570'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 113°

Im gonna post graph in new thread

 

ok im having a hard time posting the picture.... help?

 

Your pic has to be on a web site, then you just post it using the image code (picture of the mountain icon)

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sit...28-com-699204/

 

Your compression is lower than stock. So basically the entire build was done without a clue.

I was asking specific timing it had. I only command 29 degrees on my setup, pcm adds a couple at higher rpm.

 

Not a bad cam. Could be improved with a tighter lsa but it works well as is. Typically on good heads and intake, its about a 400whp cam, peaks in the lower 6000 rpm range. Smooth running but fairly aggressive lobes. Needs a good stiff spring to control above 6000 rpm. I like 150lbs seat/380-400 open pressures. similar cam as your current solid tho, probably make about same power but with hydr rollers you wont need to adjust valves ever. Just the initial preload and that should be it.

 

It looks to me like you might have missed that multiple guys are reporting their results.

 

Oops, Bazzi your not the OP in this thread. You have a 383 making 353 with a 220/230 cam? Thought you were the OP with the 230 solid roller....

280xfi will get some power back. If you made 353whp with the 220 cam (Comp 305 or similar?) then the XFI should make a good 20 whp more. Its capable of 400whp with good heads. Seen it done to many times. Heck car I tuned made 330 at 5600 before goin into valve float with a low 9's to 1 comp 360 with mild old school AFR 190's. Nothing special. It was a 350-360whp car if it had valvesprings and could get to 6200 rpm where it wanted to go, just by looking at the slope of the graph. Still ran 12.2's at 3400 lbs on a fairly warm texas night. Valvefloat killed it. Probably high 300's whp with 11 to 1 comp which it wanted. Just need to make sure it has valvespring to control it.

Its a good driving cam for a 383. Very tame mannered. It drove well in the 360 motor, cubes would eat it up. There are better choices if you know the flow characteristics of the heads but for a shelf grind I like it. YOu can find them used alot on sbc forums as its very popular so you can save some money