dying on side of road

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May 14, 2013 | 01:18 PM

#16

xxjman

Registered User

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 18

From: Leander, Texas

Re: dying on side of road

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chet1185

Thanks for the help and info guys. I will be changing the opti tomorrow. I've done this so many times I can almost do it with my eyes closed which isn't a good thing.

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I've had the same thing happen to me also was getting low res pulse code. It turned out to be my the indexing pin on the bottom of the rotor. When I replaced it the last time the ping broke off in the hole so the new rotor was not fitting flat this caused the optical wheel to rub on the sensor overheating it shutting down the motor. I removed the broken pin and all has been fine for months now.

May 14, 2013 | 11:37 PM

#17

Chet1185

Thread Starter

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 875

From: Pennsylvania

Will, got to the opti today, took it off, and it just poured oil out of it.so now I need to replace the timing cover gasket and the seals.

Is there anything I have to make sure I do?

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May 14, 2013 | 11:53 PM

#18

slick1hunting

Registered User

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 660

From: idaho

yeah lol. The seal needs handled with care. you want the lip to not fold or tear. You also want to drive it in straight. When I did mine there was a good youtube video on doing it. He used a socket(actually I think started with a smaller one to loosen it up a bit. I have a bookmark on my phone from another site that is also helpful. Will look for it.

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May 14, 2013 | 11:55 PM

#19

slick1hunting

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Joined: May 2012

Posts: 660

From: idaho

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May 15, 2013 | 08:56 PM

#20

ACE1252

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Joined: Mar 1999

Posts: 2,068

From: Kernersville, NC

Re: dying on side of road

I have a set of these to install seals.
Lisle 12980 Bearing and Seal Installer Master Set : Amazon.com : Automotive

Make sure you drive the seals in square. No oil on the outer edges of the seal. Make sure all surfaces are clean.

May 17, 2013 | 02:44 PM

#21

Chet1185

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 875

From: Pennsylvania

Well took the timing cover off and the whole pan gasket needs replaced. It is a mess of oil and sludge everywhere. I have the manual in the car and it doesn't seem to hard to change the oil pan gasket but from experience of someone else doing it, is it difficult? I did just do an engine change in my TA, so hopefully I can change the oil pan gasket.

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May 17, 2013 | 02:57 PM

#22

Chet1185

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 875

From: Pennsylvania

Would this work?

"I replaced my oil pan gasket a number of years back, but I 'cheated' and didn't remove the pan all the way.

- Drop the pan as far as you can go, like an inch or so. - Take the new gasket and slide it *under* the pan, such that it is sitting under the oil pan, against the K-Member. - Gently (!) stretch it, one side and then the other, onto each pan rail. - Inspect to make sure you didn't tear it. Mine had no issues. - Voila, only 10 minutes spent."

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May 17, 2013 | 03:14 PM

#23

slick1hunting

Registered User

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 660

From: idaho

ive seen a similar post. I recently pulled my pan to change the oil pump. What I did to create the needed room to get pan out was dropped the large bolts holding kmember up but left the strut bolts that go in fender area. I held motor up with the happy hooker and pulled the single bolt on each side of motor mount. That gave me enough room to get aftermarket pan off and back on. just changing gasket should be alot easier. Be sure you apply silicoln in the areas it is needed( dont remember now because my gasket stayed in place when I put aftermarket pan on and when changed oil pump.

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