Dead sitting here. It will start right up but die after a few seconds.


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No sputtering. Just like I shut the car off with the key.


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Could be a number of things.....I assume it will turn over.

1996 Factory manual crank but no start troubleshooting charts.....
http://www.ace1252.com/1996_Z28_Fact...ut_no_run1.JPG
http://www.ace1252.com/1996_Z28_Fact...ut_no_run2.JPG
http://www.ace1252.com/1996_Z28_Fact...ut_no_run3.JPG

 

The only thing I can do while sitting here is unplug the maf


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Finally got it home.it would run every now and then for a minute then I would feel nothing inn the gas pedal but the car was still running. When that happened I would give it gas and it was like maybe the pump wasn't working or something.I will test fuel pressure.

Car ran for half hour after all this bull. Ran good to just like normal.so I know its not the opti.(right?)


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At this point you know very little. Scan for codes, first. If you don't have a scanning solution, you are handicapping yourself from troubleshooting anything. Check fuel pressure and spark when it won't run.

 

I have a code reader and I will test if I can. All of a sudden the car just ran fine so who knows if it will do it again.

I know there are parts that usually fail when hot so I didn't know if this kinda rules then out?


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Just hooked up my laptop to the car with free scan, got codes for eas electrical which it always has, and code for low res. So I know what that means. This is why even if you don't have the money, do not buy cheap Ebay optisparks! I had just got a great deal on two GM used optis so thank good I have them.


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Now you know why you scan first, ask questions later. I am assuming the "EAS" thing is a code 29. It's the AIR pump. Even if you don't have a pump, a good fuse and relay should keep the code away on your 95. EAS is what some code readers use, but it is some generic thing from what I can tell. Use a real code list (like on my site) for correct code interpretation.

 

I have 2 spare pumps, so I will put one on. First thing I always do is scan and I actually had my scanner with me yesterday when I broke down but the batteries were dead.

How is it that the opti failed but was fine driving a half hour without a problem? You remember me asking about the cheap opti the other day? Lol


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Check the harness for corrosion, (even light corrosion) if it is aftermarket especially. The aftermarket ones corrode QUICKLY. Ask how I know. It can cause opti codes just as if the opti was having trouble. Swapped mine out with a used OEM part, a few thousand miles later, not a single hiccup. The EBay opti is definitely suspect, but sometimes we get lucky with the easy fix! lol.

 

It is a GM harness but I will definitely check it out. I don't trust the Ebay opti anyway.


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Ahh, if it's a GM harness it should be fine as long as it's snapped in all the way. Just wishing for the easy fix for ya!

 

Failures can come and go with anything that has electronic parts (especially when subjected to heat). You can't predict reliability on these things. All you can do is try to get the best quality parts (or parts with the best track record) you can afford.

Now that your opti has issues, you know what to do.

 

Thanks for the help and info guys. I will be changing the opti tomorrow. I've done this so many times I can almost do it with my eyes closed which isn't a good thing.


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